The second day of Fashion Forward took a royal turn as queens and princesses came out to play in a fairy tale setting only designers of Michael Cinco and Ezra Santos’ calibre can summon. The Filipino designers were the highlight on Saturday at the inaugural fashion week-style event, as they went all-out in decadent shows that were as dramatic as they were awe-inspiring.
But it was not all regal. There was also fine craftsmanship in the works of Lebanese designer Rami Kadi on his Dubai debut and his UAE-based compatriot Dima Ayad, who introduced a touch of vintage on the catwalk. If Dubai-based duo Arwa Abdul Hadi and Basma Abu Gazaleh brought easy chic with a bohemian touch with their label Kage, Central St Martins product Lama Al Moatassem sent models for her label Toujouri out in a mixture of structured evening wear and billowing kaftans perfect for the coming summer.
Rami Kadi
The presence of Lebanese singer Myriam Fares on the front row did not take the attention away from upcoming designer Rami Kadi’s collection, which started off like a breath of fresh air. With playful frills in short skirts Kadi quickly built the tempo as the gowns got bigger and more luxurious than the last. A product of Rabih Kayrouz’ Starch Foundation, the young designer proved why he’s built a reputation for his craftsmanship as intricate embroidery sat over beautiful cut-to-curve dresses that screamed glam. Highlights include a silk organza draped gown that was cut high above the knee on the front and an embroidered lace dress with the bottom in metallic yarn.
As he took his bow in a pastel-coloured tuxedo jacket, every one in the packed venue seem to acknowledge he’s arrived in the UAE.
Toujouri
Showing right after Rami Kadi’s dreamscape of a collection, Doha-based designer Lama Al Moatassem brought structure and order to the catwalk on Saturday evening via her label Toujouri. Practical and wearable, she went for copper and shine for the more elegant evening wear and pink, green and turquoise for her kaftans. Collars were on gowns and a jumpsuit paired with a silver belt, which got a huge round of applause. But our pick was the evening coat, sans collar, paired with a silver belt that gave it just the pizzazz it needed.
Michael Cinco
It was a case of saving the best for last as Hollywood celebrity favourite Michael Cinco took to the stage and wowed on his home turf. As if Cinco had a tight grip on the neck of every one attending his packed show on Saturday night, loud gasps were heard each time a model walked into the spotlight.
Starting off with a set of form-fitting pale nudes featuring his signature rich embroidery on sheer and lace, models slowly made their way to the end of the catwalk, building the anticipation with each sure trot. Then, as hints of his second set, all in black, appeared, it became clear Cinco was taking us back in time to live with the Russian Czars as headgear turned into crowns. Attention to detail was apparent on each piece as one got progressively more intricate than the other. There was lots of sensuality in the dark, extravagant set as Cinco played effectively, as he has always done, with Swarovski embellishments and his knowledge of fabric.
One collective wow — when a sequined gown red on top faded to black as it progressed down and ended with a massive ruffled train — was followed by another as the trains became bigger. By the time the final piece came, with the mother of all trains and in pale nude harking back to his first set of the evening, the audience was already on its feet, cheering the designer, who, after all these years, still has a lot to give.
