Desert Boots The ultra-versatile Desert Boot can double as a dressier alternative to trainers or take the formal edge of a suit. The boot’s origins are tied to the “crepe soled rough suede boots” that Englishman Nathan Clark (of the C & J Clarke shoemaking family) observed on British troops that served in Egypt during the Second World War. Upon his return to Somerset, England, he created a boot with the now-characteristic two-piece Suede uppers and a wide crepe sole (a sort of wrinkled rubber sole). These shoes were a big hit in the 1960’s in the US (Steve McQueen wore them in The Great Escape) and was the choice of the Mods in Britain. Comfortable and classic, the Desert Boot’s appeal has endured over the decades.
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The Pea Coat With its flat wide lapels, characteristic six button layout, and double breasted fit, the thick wool pea coat is ideal to ward off the elements on a chilly winter’s day. The coat’s origins lay in the uniforms issued to the British Navy in 1899, this design was later adopted by the US Navy (it was called the reefer coat) for their crew. Far from its naval roots, the pea coat is now a menswear staple. Modern iterations are cut just below the hips for comfort and though navy blue is the most popular colour, options are available in grey, olive green, and khaki as well. Though the origins of the name is unclear, it is believed to have come from the Dutch word ‘pijjekker‘, which describes a naval jacket that dates back to the 16th century.
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Chinos and Khakis While both these terms refer flat front cotton trousers and have ties to the military, that’s where the similarities end. Khakis have their origin in the uniforms created for the British Indian army in 1848 while chinos were first used to describe the lightweight twill fabric (sourced from China, hence the name) trousers worn by US troops stationed in Philippines in 1898. While khakis are made from studier, more hardwearing cotton, chinos are more lightweight and feature a tapered leg. Returning GIs wore these flat front trousers in the post-War era and soon enough chinos were a ubiquitous sight on college campuses. It soon became part of the East Coast preppy varsity look.
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Aviator Sunglasses Now synonymous with a model made by Ray-Ban, aviator-style sunglasses have much to thank Tom Cruise’s character in Top Gun for its popularity but the style was a result of a US military requirement in 1929. American Optical, a Southbridge, Massachusetts-based company made the first aviator-style sunglasses (it was labelled Type D-1) for the US Military based on a set of defence specifications. The original model, incidentally, had a plastic frame so that that no metal touched the face (not so nice in sub-zero conditions) and anti-glare lenses in a distinct green hue. By the 1940s, the upgrade spec (AN6531) aviator sunglasses were being produced in huge numbers by a clutch of watch manufacturers like Ray-Ban. A smaller, squarer version of the aviator was introduced in 1958 but the popularity of the classic oval shaped sunglasses skyrocketed after the release of Top Gun in 1986.
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The Field Watch/ Pilot’s Watch The classic Pilot’s Watch features a matte black dial with clearly legible Arabic numerals and a triangular hour marker at 12 o’ clock. The timepiece was built for the Luftwaffe by five watchmakers – IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, Stowa, Laco, and Wempe – according to a set of specifications handed out by the German Air Defense Ministry. Of the original five, IWC, Stowa, and Laco continue to make them. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is probably most popular example of a modern field watch. It is based in the American military-spec (MIL-W-46374A) wristwatch from the 1960s made for use in Vietnam and is notable for its clear legibility and sturdy construction. The NATO strap – the nylon band that holds up everything from $100 Daniel Wellingtons to $15,000 luxury diver’s watches today — has a martial backstory too. It was issued by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) to troops in 1973, the moisture-wicking properties of the nylon strap made sense for soldiers serving in tropical climates or even in the UK where every day could pretty much be a rainy day.
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The Bomber Jacket A ubiquitous sight now, the bomber jacket you see today is a direct descendant of the MA-1 flight jacket developed for jet pilots in the 1950s. They were first issued to US Air Force and Navy pilots and flight crews. The jacket differed from the leather A1 and A2 flight jackets worn by airmen during World War II (think Frank Sinatra in Von Ryan’s Express) in that the MA-1 versions were made from high quality nylon, had an elastic collar, a sleeve pocket, and polyester lining. The jackets were lightweight to aid the flying comfort of pilots. Later versions had a reversible rescue orange lining, so downed pilots wore the bright side out so that they could be visible to rescue crews. The MA-1 jacket was initially made in sage green or navy blue but once the style was co-opted by civilian manufacturers, the jacket’s popularity has soared and is now available in various colors and designs.
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