Cruise. It’s the name fashion houses bestow upon the annual collection that bridges the gap between Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter lines (also sometimes known as, Resort). Cruise collections were originally created to showcase trans-seasonal, versatile garments that tailor to a jet-set clientele who travelled, often on cruise ships, for winter sun. Now, these collections are an important part of the fashion calendar, often coupled with impressive runway shows that take place across the globe. In fact, many post-pandemic Cruise shows have become bigger and better than ever before in terms of scale, spend and the sheer excitement to be one of the lucky few to obtain an invitation to one. This is because brands have more creative autonomy when staging shows outside of the usual confines of the Fashion Week formats they have to adhere to.
This summer, The Kurator takes a look back at some of the best collections of 2023.
DIOR
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Dior Cruise 2023 collection was a journey of discovery and reflection. Presenting to the fashion pack at a show in Seville, the Spanish-inspired collection paid tribute to flamenco dancer, Carmen Amaya. “The icon of this collection is La Capitana, the name given to Carmen Amaya,” explained the house. “With her freedom to dance that did not submit to any rule, she represented the essence of flamenco. An artist with singular, revolutionary movements, she was the first dancer in her field to dress in men’s clothing, combining power and fragility through her art. Expressing the soul of Spain, she continues to embody a conscious and plural femininity.”
References also came to Maria Grazia Chiuri from the Spring/Summer 1956 haute couture Bal à Séville dress, which was designed by Christian Dior, as well as the Plaza de España, which was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition to embrace the richness of the cultures that have shaped Spain and represent its multitudes.
The collection featured silhouettes that paid homage to equestrian competitors as well as lace-embroidered dresses that encapsulated the vibrancy of the flamenco wardrobe in carmine red, ochre and yellow. Spats, capes and boleros punctuated looks with an extra touch of elegance and equestrian grace. Reinvented, the mantilla, leather gloves and fan celebrated traditional Andalusian spirit, coupled with Dior’s modern style for a truly memorable collection.
LOUIS VUITTON
Garments that celebrate the sun as well as clothes for protecting yourself from it, was the theme behind Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023. Warrior-like looks bounded between rigid silhouettes and fluid shapes, with linens draped around the body to contrast leather harnesses and winged boleros.
Molten metallics that shimmer under the sun were a highlight. Reflective frayed tweeds, sparkling sequins and denim stitched with embroidery that oxidises and changes colour over time made for a cutting-edge moment, while graphic prints were created using a thermographic camera. Other highlights included futuristic sunglasses, a padded motorsport-look shoulder bag and shoes which were a combination of desert boots, trainers and mules rolled into one.
Serving as an enormous source of inspiration, Artistic Director of Women’s Collections, Nicolas Ghesquière chose the Salk Institute in La Jolla, San Diego as the stage to present the French house’s show. “The Salk Institute has been a place of wonder for me over the years and Louis Kahn’s stunning Brutalist architecture against this extraordinary setting of the Pacific Ocean and the California sunset provided me with endless inspiration.”
PRADA
For Italian fashion house, Prada, its May Issue Cruise 2023 collection truly studies summer. Classic pieces re-discovered in atypical amalgamations skipping between formal and casual, raise heartbeats a tick or two. “Essential pieces re-examined and repurposed,” the brand explains. “The white popeline shirt, light mohair tailoring, cashmere knits, brief underwear. These fundamental tenets of dress become provocative in paradoxical contrasts: underwear can become outerwear, knits are worn in summer, while swimwear is mixed with raiments of bourgeois formality. Each element is still classic, yet when decontextualised and combined they arrest attention.”
Experimenting with styling is at the very heart of the brand’s aesthetic and this is evident as a key part of the collection, as seen as a classic white shirt becoming an evening-length gown, challenging the original intention of pieces.
Sandals and espadrilles were added for a casual ease, while an array of sophisticated bags designed for day and night are; raffia styles, totes in Antique Nappa leather, and the Prada Symbole. “An elegant contradiction to the ease of summer,” is how Prada described it. We couldn’t agree more.
LORO PIANA
Highlighting the essence of vacation living, Loro Piana’s 2023 Cruise collection was designed to transport its wearer to the sandy shores of the Mediterranean, flirting with Italy’s spirit.
Effortlessly chic, versatile pieces expertly crafted from linen or the house’s exclusive Solaire fabric stand out as key elements to every look creating a light, summer-appropriate feel. Tunics with deep side slits and wide sleeves, loose trousers, flowy shirts and a reversable coat in lightweight silk georgette with a floral motif in different tones make up the ‘highlights’ list. Bathing suits added a sense of ‘they’ve thought of everything’ for this collection.
New bag shapes rounded-off the collection including the Onde clutch, its flap echoing the curve of the Sesia line, a hand-made beach bag in striped linen with leather details, and the Blossom Shopper with luxe leather handles. The brand also collaborated with Japanese sports manufacturer, Molten, to create a small selection of sporting equipment including rackets and volleyballs.
