As soon as all the pandemic-related travelling restrictions were lifted last year, Fendi designer Kim Jones was off to Japan. The country’s ancient capital, Kyoto, is one of Jones’ favourite places in the world, stirring the Brit to create a haute couture line for this week’s Fendi show in Paris that comes highly inspired by Japanese themes.
Complex fabrics that mimic the patterns of 18th century sashes were used for dresses and gowns, and silk for the kimono-inspired relaxed body suits. Subdued satin tones dominate throughout the collection, but an opportunity to display the iconic ‘F’ logo in the form of a thousand diamonds could not be missed either.
Taking the opportunity in Paris, Fendi’s Artistic Director of Jewellery Delfina Delettrez also presented the premiere of the brand’s latest High Jewellery line with yellow diamonds.
Fendi’s Haute Couture line was surely one of the main highlights of the day, but somewhere in a secluded Parisienne garden Italian mission Aelis practised conservatism and restraint with the Sofia Crociani-designed collection. Aelis’ silk gowns and lightweight tulle dresses are signature styles, though a bejewelled denim jacket also made the cut.
Tokyo’s Yuima Nakazato was also showcased in Paris, featuring dyed fabrics in the designer’s expression of the sky and the clouds - yes, there was lots of indigo.
Over on Imane Ayissi’s runway Africa was the theme, the Cameroonian designer employing capes, braids, embroidery and traditional tribal patterns in many of his creations.
Making her debut at Paris Haute Couture Week, Juana Martin’s line of elegant and sophisticated outfits is a mix of highly technical tailoring with lace, silk and more embroidery used for the glamorous dresses - off-white and a black sheen hark back to the 1920s.
There was something for everyone in Paris with traditional looks contrasted by, for example, Balenciaga’s stunning show and Chanel’s tribal-art creations, so here’s to the next one.
