All Iz well at the Grand Hyatt

In a year when the end of the world was announced every three months — first by those worried about the business climate, then by those worried about the climate business — Iz, the fashionable fine-dining Indian restaurant at the Grand Hyatt, has calmly charmed its way into the hearts of food aficionados, from the stylish Indian set to Emirati families.

Sometimes when you go out, you just want to eat. You don't want to pore over a lengthy menu with wordy descriptions of every dish. Keeping that in mind, I tried the set menu, which was distinctly North Indian fare.

Just as we took our seats, came a carousel of papad cones and bewitching dips, pineapple pickle and sweet mango chutney. What fun to simply take a seat and be served! Iz has an open kitchen where the food is freshly prepared and everything is visible.

No tiresome buffets and no decisions to make about what to order, minimising long pauses in between courses. Did I miss "the variety"? Not in the least. It was a relief not to go through endless pages of variations on the same dish.

The interior is contemporary but unpretentious, while the lighting is soft and warm, with the tables placed strategically in an arrangement that is roomy, comfortable and stylish. No need to worry about your neighbour eavesdropping on your conversation.

Small but delightful

People often ask me what my favourite type of food is, as if there is ever an answer to such a question. When pressed, I answer it is "Indian food", with its abundant use of spices, that I love the most.

So we started with perfectly grilled succulent seekh kebab (lamb), soft and delicious paneer kebab (cottage cheese marinated with yoghurt and cooked in the tandoor), roasted broccoli — its natural earthiness is proof that food doesn't have to be complicated to be extraordinary — and the classic melt-in-the-mouth murgh kebab (flattened chicken)

The portions were small, some of them merely a bite, but every one a delightful surprise.

After a much-needed break, the main course was brought to the table. It included aloo palak (spinach and potatoes) I felt it was a bit on the bland side, dal makhani, a flavourful robust lentil preparation, and chicken curry with naan. There was also a pilau seasoned with apricot, cashew nuts, figs and vegetables, which I actually prefer to the overpowering biryanis.

Tucking into the chicken curry, I found myself with precisely two pieces, and, lovely as they were in their onion, silky butter and tomato sauce accompaniment, it wouldn't have been enough to satiate someone with gaping stomach capacity. Honestly, the oil-rich curry was just enough for me.

And to round off a wonderful meal on a sweet note, I indulged in a scoop of kulfi.

Okay, let's admit it — Indian food is not, shall we say, the healthiest option, but then as the saying goes: all the good things in life are either illegal or fattening.

There's always something serendipitous about a great meal and, in a way, perhaps unrepeatable. After a memorable experience, I came away feeling I've enjoyed something more than just good cooking.

IZ Where: Grand Hyatt Dubai, Oud Metha Tel: 04-3172222

Décor: Contemporary

Ambience: Fashionable

Must haves: Seekh and murgh kebab

Total bill: Set menu — Dh200