Squalane explained: Benefits, uses and how to incorporate it into your skincare routine

When it comes to skincare, the world can feel like a maze of serums, creams, and oils, each promising to transform your skin into a glowing masterpiece. But in the midst of all the buzzwords and miracle ingredients, there’s one quiet achiever that’s been stealing the show without making too much noise—squalane. If this word sounds vaguely familiar, it’s time to give it the spotlight it deserves because your skin will thank you for it.

So, what’s good about squalane?

What is squalane?

First things first—what is it? As Dubai-based dermatologists and specialists Aliah Altaf and Aashima Singh explain: Squalane is a stable, hydrogenated version of squalene, a natural lipid your body produces to keep your skin hydrated, soft, and glowing. Unfortunately, as you grow older, your body starts dialing down its squalene production. That’s where squalane steps in—an eco-friendly, lab-made ingredient, typically derived from plants like olives, sugarcane, or rice bran, to keep your skin supple and moisturised.

Around the age of 30, your natural squalene production takes a nosedive—just like collagen and other skin essentials. So, squalene, by mimicking your skin’s natural oils, squalane dives deep into the lipid layers, locking in hydration and preventing moisture loss. The result? Skin that feels replenished, looks radiant, and regains its youthful suppleness.

Squalane versus squalene: What’s the difference?

Squalene is the original compound, while squalane is its refined, more stable derivative. The key difference lies in oxidation: squalene oxidises quickly, which makes it unsuitable for skincare. Squalane, on the other hand, is hydrogenated to prevent oxidation, resulting in a stable, long-lasting, and highly effective skincare ingredient.

The benefits of squalane

Squalane is the multitasker your skin has been waiting for. It hydrates, softens, smoothens, and adds that enviable glow. As Altaf explains, “Unlike heavier oils that can sit on the surface, squalane is lightweight and absorbs effortlessly, locking in moisture and improving skin texture without leaving a greasy feel.”

But what truly sets squalane apart is its protective nature. It strengthens your skin barrier, preventing water loss while shielding against external irritants like pollution. Dealing with dry, flaky skin? Squalane has you covered. Struggling with redness or inflammation? It works to soothe and calm. Skin concerns like acne, eczema, or rosacea? Squalane can help bring relief without clogging your pores. However, remember it isn’t formal treatment for eczema: You still need to consult a doctor.

Squalane has shown promise in soothing itchiness, with some studies highlighting its potential. For example, a 2004 study on individuals with uremic pruritus—a chronic kidney condition that causes intense itching—found that a squalane-infused gel helped reduce dryness and alleviate the urge to scratch. While the results are encouraging for those seeking relief from itchy skin, it's important to note that the study involved only 20 participants. Additionally, since the gel contained other ingredients, it’s unclear how much of the benefit was directly attributed to squalane itself.

One of its standout abilities is filling in the gaps between skin cells to reinforce the outer layer, making it harder for moisture to escape. The best part? It’s non-comedogenic, lightweight, and perfect for anyone looking for hydration without the fear of breakouts. Whether you’re battling dryness, irritation, or dullness, squalane is the ultimate skincare MVP.

And that’s not all—it’s also a glow-booster, enhancing luminosity while reducing fine lines and wrinkles over time. Whether you’re fighting dryness, sensitivity, or early signs of aging, squalane has you covered.

How to incorporate it into your skincare routine:

Squalane plays nicely with most skincare ingredients, including niacinamide, but there are a few tips for making the most of it:

· For dry skin: Try using a squalane-rich moisturiser twice a day, especially during the winter months, when extra hydration is key. Moisturizers are generally more hydrating than serums, so they provide deeper nourishment.

·  For oily skin or humid climates: Use it once a day or opt for a lightweight squalane serum instead. If you choose a serum, apply it after cleansing but before your moisturiser. Since squalane is a fatty molecule, it’s thick and works best when sealing in hydration.

If you're unsure how squalane will affect your skin, it's always a good idea to do a patch test first.

What to be cautious about:

Exfoliating Acids (AHAs/BHAs like glycolic or salicylic acid): While squalane itself is non-irritating, using it right after strong exfoliants might slow their absorption. If you’re using acids, apply them first, wait a few minutes, then follow with squalane.

Occlusives like petroleum jelly: Squalane is lightweight and penetrates deeply, while occlusives form a thick barrier. Layering squalane after something like Vaseline or a heavy balm can trap it on the surface, reducing effectiveness.

Heavy oils (like coconut oil or shea butter):  If your skin is oily or acne-prone, layering too many oils can feel greasy and potentially clog pores. Stick to one lightweight oil at a time.

Squalane and retinol

There are differing opinions about squalane and retinol, as the latter can be drying and cause irritation, and squalane may not have enough hydration to counteract these effects.

Nevertheless, here’s a possible way to proceed with retinol and squalane, as the dermatologists explain:

Introduce slowly:  If you’re new to retinol, start by applying it every other night or a few times a week to give your skin time to adjust. Retinol can be strong, and squalane will help soothe your skin, but it’s still important not to overdo it at first.

Watch for irritation: Retinol can cause dryness, redness, or peeling, especially in the initial stages. While squalane is hydrating and calming, if irritation becomes too much, you may want to ease off retinol for a bit or use it on alternate nights to avoid overwhelming your skin.

Apply in the right order: Start with retinol after cleansing and let it absorb a few minutes. Then, layer squalane on top to lock in moisture. This ensures both products can work without interfering with each other.

Use sunscreen: Both retinol and squalane can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so always apply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.