Origins of biryani
Biryani may have been the food of the royals in India, yet, strangely it did not originate in the Indian subcontinent.
Biryani is derived from the Farsi word “biryan” which means “to roast”. In the Middle East, rice is first roasted in ghee (clarified butter) before the dish – whether biryani or pulao or flavoured rice – is prepared.
“When the Mughals came to India they came through Afghanistan and north India,” explained Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia. “That’s how the flavours came in and once in India it was adapted with local spices and herbs. It could have been a Moti (pearl) biryani or sone ke wark (beaten gold leaf) ki biryani or biryani with prized birds and exotic ingredients were used to please rulers. Biryani is a classic rice dish cooked with ‘dum’ (airtight) technique. With the Mughals who ruled a vast portion of the country, the biryani took on a new connotation and style, so much so now it’s recognised as a dish from India rather than its actual Persian or Afghani origins. That’s an example of how the whole spice route influenced food”.
However, Saneesh K.V. chef de cuisine at The Oberoi Dubai, has a different tale to tell.
“Biryani was not a royal dish. It was cooked to feed the soldiers because it was a one-pot dish which had everything in it – the meat, the rice, the veggies – so even though it took time to cook, it was easier to do. This also gave the soldiers enough energy for the whole day. At the same time, the nawabs of Awadh have been famous for being fancy foodies and the story goes like once a nawab was strolling in his garden when he smelled an amazing aroma. So he enquired and was told it was coming from the soldiers’ kitchen. On tasting he said the biryani should be part of the royal cuisine. So a version was created for him with reduced spices but enhanced flavours”.
How much should a good plate of biryani cost?
Abhijit Gurav of Mint Leaf says a signature biryani can cost anything between Dh120-150 for two because of “time and expertise” the chef puts in. But one shouldn’t get disheartened. Mohammad Arif of Student Biryani and Hira Sohail of Kabab Kolony concur that a good serving of biryani should be no more than Dh22-25.
So there’s something for everyone.
Here are five places to go in Dubai for a good plate of biryani
Ashiana By Vineet Bhatia, Sheraton Dubai Creek & Towers. Prices start from Dh145 (for two) for chicken biryani.
Mint Leaf Dubai, DIFC. Dh150 for Potli lamb biryani and Dh95 for prawn biryani.
Student Biryani. Start from Dh29 Chicken biryani combo (including small biryani, mutton shami kebab salad, raita and drink)
Kabab Kolony. Start from Dh16 for chicken biryani
Calicut Paragon. Start from Dh16 for chicken biryani
