Sharjah: You cannot miss the dancing neon lights, the hot samosas with fried green chillies wrapped in brown paper and the hot steaming cups of tea as you stroll along Al Shuwaiheen area in Sharjah in the evening.
As the sun sets, the call for prayers punctuates the hustle and bustle of traffic that packs the narrow lanes of this area which springs to life after dark.
In pictures: Sharjah's Al Shuwaiheen
While the rest of Sharjah is dotted with modern buildings, this place holds on to the past and people live in simple homes and smile warmly at passers-by.
Al Shuwaiheen is known for Al Hisn Fort, which was built in 1820. It used to be the residence of Al Qasimi ruling family. In 1996, the fort was converted into a museum and now exhibits photographs from the past, classic weapons, priceless maps and a large collection of tools.
Nearby is the Sharjah Contemporary Art Museum and the Arab Art Centre.
However, the area is not all culture and heritage; it is also a popular shopping destination for Emiratis. Souq Al Shuwaiheen is located in the Art Area. It has a large open space known as ‘Arsah Alsakham' in the centre, which was at one time the meeting place where the Bedouin gathered with their goods like coal, wood and grass.
Most of these shops sell food, wholesale and retail goods. Most of the merchants belong to the Zaraina tribe, which is well-known in Iran.
The Old Souq which has been running for more than 25 years is now known for its incense and garment shops.
Mohammad Najal, who works with the Sharjah Chamber of Commerce and Industry nearby, said: "This area is very traditional and I enjoy seeing the heritage areas like the museums, because it is good to see something different other than modern buildings all the time."
Trying to find a parking space in the evening is tough in the narrow lanes, so people park their cars opposite Al Hisn Fort and walk the short distance to the souq.
Mohammad Ashraf, who owns Al Mohamadiya Cafeteria, said he gets 1,000 customers every day, due to his strategic location.
"The cafeteria is between the abaya and tailor shops, so everybody sees it."
Each lane is dedicated to a different item. The shops sell abayas, incense and perfumes and long colourful dresses known as ‘Jalabiyas'.
"Many Arab families come here during the weekend because you can buy top perfumes and clothes that you cannot find anywhere else in the city." Karisma Jernale, a sales promoter, said: "People from as far away as Abu Dhabi and Ras Al Khaimah come to this souq."
Yousuf Gareeb, from Abu Dhabi, said he enjoys bringing his family to the souq at least once a month.
"My wife likes coming down here because she can get something that is not available in other shops. While she is busy shopping, I take our two children, Nasser and Noora, to buy toys," he said.
As you walk further down the street, the smell of burning oud (incense) draws you closer to the perfume shops full of men and women haggling for a good bargain.
Abdul Hamid Mohammad, a salesman at a textile shop, said the old market is one of the best places for his kind of business.
"The shop has been running for seven years and it is still popular among Emirati women," Mohammad said.
Bargains
Interested buyers should haggle for a bargain as the cheapest oud here sells for about Dh1,000 per kilogram.
Mansour Chowdhry has been working at Eastern Perfumes Centre for 13 years, and said many of his customers come from Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain.
"We have a very good market for oud that [is] used for special occasions like Eid and marriages. The best oud can cost Dh7,500 per kilogram," Chowdry said.
"I also sell dihn oud, which is made up from the oils of oud and that can cost up to Dh2,500 per 12 millilitres. But people do not buy those perfumes for everyday use. Instead, they buy something called mukhallat, which is mixed with the essences of Arab and Western perfumes. Those are more reasonably priced and costs between Dh20 and Dh50."
Helal Al Qubaisi, an Emirati from Al Ain, visits Sharjah on the weekends to see his relatives and uses that time to head down to the Souq.
"I have been coming here for the past 15 years with my wife and [now with my] two-year-old son as it a very relaxing place to visit with the family," Al Qubaisi said.
Kumar Pursnani has been running the abaya shop Dalia since 1992, and is quite pleased with how the district has maintained its traditional outlook.
"All you have to do is park your car and walk for about five metres to cross the street, and in one lane you have a beauty parlour, and shops for hair accessories, abayas and jalabiyas," he said.
He said that over the years women's fashion has changed.
"Customers now want more crystals for the embroidery work," Pursnani said.
He said the month of Ramadan is the best time for business as it is like a festival and everyone is happy shopping.
During the evenings, children of all nationalities play on the pavements, kicking a football.
Umm Mohammad, a Syrian mother of four, was having a hard time disciplining her children inside the shop and eventually let them play outside while she kept a watchful eye on them through the window.
"It is a safe neighbourhood. I do not worry about them getting lost. They know this place well as we come here all the time," she said.
In one corner of the souq you see fluorescent lights placed decoratively outside the garment shops to attract shoppers.
One unusual thing in these cloth shops is that the faces of the mannequins are wrapped in cloth. In February 2008, Sharjah Municipality prohibited the display of mannequins with facial features. Shopkeepers found it too expensive to buy new ones, so they wrapped their faces with colourful cloths.
Rehmat Allah, a tailor, hangs his embroidery work across the walls of his shop so that pedestrians and motorists can see his workmanship.
"Our customers buy the material and I do the embroidery work on the sleeves, around the neck or across the chest, or back. It takes up to 13 hours to do the embroidery work for one dress," he said.
The district of Al Shuwaiheen is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Sharjah and is home to the Old Souq.
As there are many art galleries and art-related activities held throughout the year, the area is also referred to by residents as the Arts Area. The Art Museum was inaugurated in 1997 and features a variety of artwork, in addition to a permanent display of artwork from the collection of His Highness Dr Shaikh Sultan Bin Mohammad Al Qasimi, Member of the Supreme Council and Ruler of Sharjah.
Favourite five
- Al Daleel Mosque: The mosque is the oldest in the city and was built in 1919. It was renovated in the mid-1990s and accommodates up to 250 worshippers.
- Fatima Supermarket: The supermarket also acts as a department store where customers can find good bargains in clothes and food, as well as being able to purchase ingredients from the South Asian countries.
- Pak Gazi Restaurant: This eatery is mostly frequented by residents in the neighbourhood who look for typical Pakistani dishes at a low cost.
- Sara Shopping Centre: It is a centre catering to women and offers all sorts of items that range from high quality fabric materials to cosmetics, handbags and shoes.
- Al Hilal Educational Institute: The institute is quite popular for pupils since its launch in 1993 as it is an overseas approved agency that conducts various Indian university programmes.
