Like many chefs, Jun Tanaka loved eating as a child. Family dinner was the highlight of his day while growing up in England, but unlike a lot of others, he met no resistance when he expressed a desire to try his hand at professional cooking. Instead, his father actively endorsed his decision — and young Tanaka began his career at the age of 19. He started as an apprentice with the Roux brothers at Le Gavroche, with knives borrowed from his mum’s kitchen.
That early support has taken the American-born Japanese chef, now 46, through several spells on TV, including Channel 4’s Cooking It and BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen. In 2015, he finally opened his own restaurant, The Ninth, which was awarded its first Michelin star in last year's guide.
Tanaka will be in Dubai this weekend, demonstrating his Mediterranean signatures to punters at Taste of Dubai, which begins on Thursday. We asked him about Dubai and TV cheffery in a recent email interview. Edited excerpts:
Jun Tanaka, Antony Worrall Thompson and Sherrie Hewson in the ‘Daily Cooks Challenge’ TV show in 2008.
What are you doing at Taste of Dubai this year?
I’ll be cooking a signature dish from The Ninth of turbot with lemon butter at the Crate and Barrel Chef’s theatre and teaching a simple roast duck dish at the Al Ain Farms and Kibsons cooking challenge. Big flavours and lots of tips and tricks to handle different meats... I’m very excited.
And what does Dubai taste of to you?
Aromatic spices, fresh herbs and sweet sticky pastries.
How far does Arabic food inspire you?
I take inspiration from all types of cuisines although, I have to admit that my knowledge of Arabic food is pretty limited. But that’s why I enjoy visiting Dubai so much.
But you were offered a Dubai restaurant — why haven’t you opened it yet?
I felt it was important to open my first restaurant in London, as it’s my home city. I’ve known my business partner since I was 14 so we trust each other, which is essential when you’re opening a business. I want to firmly establish The Ninth both in name and as a business before looking at other opportunities.
What would it take for you to open a restaurant here?
A fantastic location and partners that share my vision for the restaurant.
The Ninth just won its first Michelin star. Congratulations. However, you’ve said it isn’t in the Michelin mould — so are you surprised?
Thanks. When I opened The Ninth, my ambition was to create a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant serving delicious, simple and seasonal dishes for a reasonable price. I wanted a restaurant that guests would be happy to visit once a week, simply because they don’t feel like cooking at home. This was my priority, so when we were awarded a star it came as a complete surprise. But, it was definitely the highlight of my career. Some people have preconceptions of a Michelin star restaurant and I feel that we are slightly different from the norm as the dining experience of the sharing-style dishes and service is very relaxed atmosphere.
I believe that we were awarded the star because we focus on flavour over all else.
How does your Japanese heritage inspire of influence your cooking?
I love pickled vegetables. At The Ninth, we pickle all types of seasonal vegetables and use them in our dishes.
When asked about using Japanese ingredients in your food, you’ve said you didn’t want to cook fusion, which is why you stuck to French/Mediterranean at The Ninth. Aren’t many of the techniques in today’s pro kitchens fusion-like anyway?
Yes, you’re right, we all take inspiration from different cultures and cuisines. In the same way that music takes inspiration from different genres. But, that doesn’t necessary make them ‘fusion’ restaurants. The core recipes and techniques we use at The Ninth are based on French recipes but the dishes are fresh and vibrant — more Mediterranean.
What ingredients are you inspired by at the moment?
Anything seasonal… so, right now they are forced rhubarb and blood orange. At the moment, we have a duck dish on the menu at The Ninth with pickled rhubarb and blood orange sauce.
What foods are on your bucket list?
Matsusaka beef and blowfish. They are both Japanese products but I would have to eat the beef first just in case the blowfish kills me!
You’re 46. Do you think about a second act, another career? What would it be?
I am very fortunate to be in a career that I love. But, if for some reason I could not cook anymore, I would want to be an underwater photographer.
Tell us a secret about TV cooking shows.
The food never tastes as good as it looks on TV.
Don’t miss it!
Taste of Dubai runs from March 8 to 10 at the Dubai Media City Amphitheatre. Tickets, starting at Dh80, are available on tasteofdubaifestival.com.
JUN TANAKA’S TOP TIPS FOR NOVICE COOKS
• Be organised in the kitchen: You can’t cook well in an untidy kitchen. If you step foot into a professional kitchen you can tell the best chef simply by looking at their work stations. The tidiest chef will be the best cook.
• Taste constantly: Flavours are continuously changing so taste at every stage of the recipe.
• Buy a decent set of knives: One-size fits all doesn’t work in a kitchen. You need the right knife for the right job.
• Get the best: Before preparing a recipe, buy the best ingredients that you can afford — when you cook with quality produce you don’t need to mess about.
• Keep it simple: No need to explain this one.
