A piece of paradise

Sitting in the crisp morning sunshine, overlooking the majestic Himalayan mountains, I see a brilliantly hued butterfly dancing on a colourful wildflower.I'm having a luxurious pedicure, nattering away to my friend who is sitting next to me, enjoying a relaxing head massage.

Minutes later, almost as if having read our minds, a waiter emerges from the bungalow bearing glasses of delicious fresh lemonade, completing the picture of a moment in time that is perfectly blissful.

As I sip my drink, I tune out for just a moment to wonder bemusedly if this is what heaven feels like…

But you don't have to wait for the afterlife to experience the little piece of paradise that is the Glenburn Tea Estate — just enduring a slightly bumpy three-hour drive up to the mountains is enough!

The Glenburn Boutique Hotel is a unique holiday destination in the tea-producing north Bengal region of India.

It is part of a working tea estate — dating back to 1860 — that allows guests a chance to experience the genteel life of a wealthy tea planter. The beauty of the mountainous landscape it is set in, is matched perfectly by the luxe, yet homely, charm of the resort.

The Glenburn experience, as they put it — and there really isn't a better way to describe it — starts from the moment you land at the tiny Bagdogra airport (or at New Jalpaiguri railway station, if travelling by train).

Friendly chauffeurs whisk us off in luxury SUVs through the dusty little town, effortlessly dodging cows and tractors on the streets, to soon escape into the cleaner, greener countryside.

About halfway through the drive, we stop for a picnic in a little roadside shack that turns out to be a hidden gem - the sort of place that only insiders know about.

Walking through the crumbly café, we are ledto a terrace out back with amazing views of the Teesta River meandering across the rocky landscape.

Our drivers double up as waiters as they produce — rabbit-out-of-hat style — a delicious spread of sandwiches, homemade brownies and fruit, from picnic hampers loaded in the cars.

This is accompanied by our first taste of the fragrant, delicate Glenburn tea served in proper china — not a Styrofoam cup in sight.

Well-fed and relaxed, we set off again along steep, precipitous mountain roads that the drivers expertly navigate. With darkness having set in, just as we were about to get the ‘Are we there yet?' bug, we see the warm, inviting glow of the residential bungalows at Glenburn beckoning us.

At the door, we are greeted personally by the resident hostess, Neena, who welcomes us with a refreshing glass of iced tea and drapes a green silk scarf around our necks — a little souvenir to take home with us. Without wasting any time, we jump straight into the evening's entertainment, which involves sitting around a roaring bonfire at the edge of a hill, sipping drinks and munching on kababs while chatting with the lovely estate manager until dinnertime.

Dinner is an intimate sit-down affair in the resort's dining room, where guests get a chance to mingle while feasting on course after course of delicious food.

We sampled the local cuisine in our first meal, which consisted of momos (steamed dumplings) and thukpa (a mildly-spiced rice soup) accompanied by a multitude of breads, salads and other side dishes, and finished off with a green tea ice cream.

After a sumptuous dinner, we all retire to the drawing room, where another roaring fire awaits us.

Why leave the room?

There are just eight guest rooms in the resort's two colonial-style bungalows, the Burra bungalow, and the newer Water Lily bungalow, located just a few steps below. Each room is designed in a different theme and colour scheme — and named accordingly — but they are all decorated with the 100-year old heritage of the estate carefully maintained.

For example, the Planters suite boasts its own fireplace, a private ante-room and a four-poster antique-stylebed, while the Camelliasuite is furnished with anod to the botanical nature of tea — with hand-printed motifs of ‘two leaves and a bud' artfully spread throughout the room.

Even the pretty, spacious bathrooms offer great views and feature claw-foot bathtubs, and divine Darjeeling green tea toiletries. Consistently lavish and elegant, yet never over-the-top, the décor manages to strike the perfect balance between comfort and quaint charm. Little touches such as the quirky sign accompanying the vintage toilet flush handles add an element of fun to the classic style.

Most of the rooms in the main bungalow look out onto the whitewashed, wildflower-clad verandah, which is generously scattered with sofas and armchairs that invite you to curl up with a book or for a snooze.

The Water Lily bungalow rooms have majestic views of the Kanchenjunga mountain direct from the bed, and a lovely breakfast terrace overlooking the snowy mountain ranges. Between the sunny verandahs, the drawing rooms in both bungalows, and the option of just pulling up a chair on the grassy lawns, there is never a lack of spots to sit back and enjoy the tranquil peace which is broken only by the twittering of birds.

To do, or not to do

Waking up to the view of mountains, and fresh tea in bed, I was inclined to not bother getting up, but there are plenty of activities — and non-activities — at the resort to tempt you out of the rooms.

There are hiking, bird-watching and walking trails in the surrounding valleys, ranging from gentle downhill walks to the riverside, to tougher full-day hikes.

My pick was the hike to the Glenburn campsite, a log cabin situated by the river Rungeet which runs through the estate.

Accompanied by the resident naturalist, Prakash, who pointed out interesting flora and fauna along the way, we set off on the three-hour walk. The trail goes down 2,200 feet into the foothills, past gurgling waterfalls, green tea-bush expanses, and through dense forests.

Taking a relaxed, easy pace, we stopped on the way for refreshments that Prakash miraculously produced from his backpack. (We also had a jeep following us at an unobtrusive distance throughout, in case we got too tired to walk!)

Arriving at the picturesque campsite, we found a canopied table set up and waiting for us, with lemonade and freshly barbecued chicken at the ready. This was followed by lunch, which turned out to be a little more gourmet than the sandwiches from a picnic hamper that we'd been expecting. Think a four-course meal, including quiche, ratatouille, various salads and homemade breads, beautifully laid out on the table, followed by a scrummy flambéed banana dessert. After a relaxed afternoon spent exploring the riverbed and paddling in the rock pools, we ended the day driving back to the bungalow for another evening by the bonfire. For those who want to, spending the night in the basic, but comfortable, campsite is also an option.

Other walking routes include excursions to villages in the neighbouring state, Sikkim, into a nearby orange orchard and local school, and intense riverside hikes, among others.

There are also other day-trips to try for thosewho are all walked out, such as a visit to Darjeeling — a colourful hill station where the main attractions are the historic ‘Toy train' (a steam locomotive dating back to 1880) and shopping in local markets for crafts and curios.

Kalimpong is one more nearby town which is worth checking out for great views of the Himalayas, and visits to Buddhist monasteries.

And while in Glenburn, their signature tea tour is a must-do. From learning the highly specialised art of plucking tea leaves in the various seasons, and interacting with the workers as you explore the plantations, to a guided tour of the tea factory and tea-tasting with the estate manager, this day-long tour offers an insight into the fascinating world of tea estates.

Other seasonal activities such as river-rafting and fishing are also offered, and most of the activities are flexible and can be tailor-made.

Equally important to the Glenburn experience, however, is the opportunity to just kick back and relax in the serene surroundings, a luxury most of us city-dwellers can ill afford on a regular basis.

So the next day, we decided to do just that, spending the morning lazing on the sunny lawns, while the three resident Labradors gambolled about. Our languid morning was followed by yet another delicious lunch (cucumber flan and flower salad, anyone?) on the verandah with our fellow guests.

Most of the vegetables,fruit and herbs used in the cuisine are grown fresh in the on-site organic garden, and guests are encouraged to share their own recipes with the chefs, who often add them to the regular menu.

The icing on the cake for me was an indulgent massage at the in-house spa (in-room massages are also an option), where my walk-weary muscles were eased into submission, and all my urban stresses kneaded away by the combination of expert pummelling and fragrant tea tree oil. Bliss.

Until next time

All too soon it was time for us to pack our bags and head back while casting envious glances at the writer who had checked in for a 20-day sojourn seeking inspiration for his next film script, and the couple celebrating their tenth wedding anniversary with a two-week holiday in the mountains.

Glenburn is the sort of place that you want to go back to once you've discovered it.

No matter how stylishly designed a resort is, at the end of the day, it is the quality of service that makes a destination truly special — and at Glenburn, the service was unfailingly friendly, efficient and personalised, yet impeccably discreet and unobtrusive.

Nothing seems too much trouble here, and you are pampered and cosseted like a family guest, by everyone from the smiling waiters to the estate manager and his wife who wave goodbye as you drive off. A

Fact finder

Getting there: The Glenburn Tea Estate is approximately three-hours away by road, from Bagdogra airport and New Jalpaiguri train station, both of which are well-connected with major Indian cities such as Kolkata and Delhi. The roads are quite bad, and traffic can be congested, so the drive is rough in parts. Emirates (www.emirates.ae) offers daily flights to both Delhi and Kolkata.

Cost and contacts: Room rates start from Rs.9,000 (about Dh715) per night per person, including food, resort activities, laundry and transfers. Spa treatments and certain seasonal activities are charged extra. Visit www.glenburnteaestate.com for more.

Don't leave without: Checking out the on-site Glenburn shop, where you can pick up a wide range of souvenirs including beautiful hand-embroidered table linen, silk scarves, home-made chutneys and preserves and of course, tea.

Worth knowing