Emerging trend of med-spas and the lure of non-surgical and non-invasive beauty treatments. Is this changing the landscape of this ancient industry? Carolina D'Souza speaks to Mona Syed-Mirza of Biolite Skin Clinic to find out.
The beauty industry loves portmanteau words. Words that hybridise two functions. Like cosmetic and pharmaceutical for cosmeceutical. And now medical and spa for med-spa.
Like cosmeceuticals, the med-spa concept is one of the fastest growing segments.
It's easy to see why.
It combines holistic wellness with medical expertise and assigns it to a place that makes you want to tootle around in a bathrobe and slippers.
It is a place where the sybarite finds delectable pleasure in exquisite interiors and confidence in the efficacy of treatments. It is a place for sensory pleasures and scientific technology.
Med-spas are being promoted as purveyors of beauty potions and medical anodynes. Simply stated it
is about luxury backed by science.
It is a crossbred concept that originated in the US to meet the growing aesthetic demands, especially anti-ageing.
In general, the spa culture has metamorphosed into an industry and fuelled many a trend. We have dental, retail, salon and pet spas. We also have new terminologies that include phrases like spa cuisine, spa business trips and destination spas.
Med-spas, though still in a nascent state, offer medically certified services not available at conventional spas.
At med-spas, holistic treatments like body massages, scrubs and wraps are as much in demand as radio frequency-based and non-invasive mesotherapy (insertion of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants under the surface of the skin) treatments.
They also offer non-surgical, anti-ageing and skincare therapies, including facial and body treatments; and tackle acute problems such as acne, ageing, sun damage and weight management.
"Unlike regular spas and salons, med-spas enjoy credibility because they offer targeted treatments by combining FDA- [Food and Drug Administration] approved products and technology with CE Marking [to indicate conformity with the essential health and safety requirements as per European Directive] in a spa-based environment," says Mona Mirza, medical aesthetician and founder of Biolite Skin Clinic, a med-spa in Dubai.
Biolite started out as a London-based non-surgical enhancement clinic in 2001 before opening a second branch in Dubai Healthcare City (DHCC).
"When I launched, the medical aesthetics industry was taking off in the UK, and standards were being set. We grew from a single treatment room set-up to a four-room suite offering a range of non-invasive treatments. The Biolite Skin Clinic is one of the oldest in Harrow-on-the-Hill area today," she says.
The decor at Biolite is based on a Far Eastern theme in which feng shui elements have been incorporated.
"The aesthetics are just as important in a med-spa.
In fact, post treatment many clients wish to be left longer in the treatment rooms as they feel relaxed. We also incorporate reflexology during facials," she says.
The growth of med-spas
The popularity of med-spas can be ascribed to its medical backing.
"If a regular facial or topical application hasn't helped, a med-spa will. In addition, clients are confident in the knowledge that these are operated by and under the supervision of licensed medical professionals and aestheticians," reasons Mona.
The growing market for non-surgical services is fuelled by the "look good, feel great" trend. Mona says people are not afraid to spend on themselves and are willing to go to any lengths to maintain youthfulness.
"Self image has become an important preoccupation. For many it translates into a feeling-good emotion."
A fact confirmed by the demand for treatments like the RF (Radio Frequency) skin tightening in the West. "It tightens lax skin at a cellular level without surgery.
If performed early in life it helps delay signs of ageing. It also works well to maintain the results of a surgical procedure," says Mona.
Med-spas: what's on offer?
Med-spas treat sun damage, active acne, acne scarring, rosacea, thread veins, hormonal based pigmentation and cellulite.
They also offer permanent hair reduction, anti-ageing, skin rejuvenation and weight and nutrition programmes.
"We use technology to treat. For instance RF and ultra sound-based treatments with Muscle Stimulating System are used for fat reduction.
Non-invasive transdermal mesotherapy is used to deliver a cocktail of vitamins and anti-ageing ingredients to the dermis. The combination of technology like Intense Pulsed Light [IPL], cosmeceuticals and targeted topical preparations produce results that are often more than just pleasing," says Mona.
Other than high-tech treatments, med-spas provide specialised facials, which assist in exfoliating and infuse the skin with reparative and rejuvenating ingredients.
Cellulite treatment is also favoured at med-spas. "At Biolite we often combine this with nutrition advice. We mentor clients and ensure they are weighed and measured during each session," she says.
Clients often request Mona to outline an annual skincare regime. "Usually this includes exfoliating treatments that could be a mix of microdermabrasion and peels along with a combination of Fotofacials and RF to target the neck, dark circles or the whole face.
This way we give the client maximum benefit. Not all treatments can be performed simultaneously; healing often needs to take place between sessions."
Technology and science
The medical aesthetics market is constantly introducing new technology. "Most treatments at med-spas use equipment known as medical devices; the main ones include laser and IPL," says Mona.
Technologically-assisted treatment makes it possible to procure a detailed skin analysis report. "We use a high-definition camera to ascertain hydration levels, wrinkle depth, pigmentation and general well-being
of the skin. This report is produced before and after so the client can see the changes to the skin," she says.
Med-spas insist on a patch test before treatments that require IPL or laser. "Generally we give our clients 24 hours after a patch test before they can begin a treatment. The same applies to glycolic peels," she says.
The technicians at a med-spa
Medical aestheticians at med-spas are trained to use technologically based treatments and to ensure a client's suitability and safety. They can then advise on pre- and post-treatment guidelines.
"In the UK and US there are courses specialising in medical aesthetics where doctors, nurses and experienced cosmetologists train in performing treatments and understanding contraindications,"
says Mona, adding, "to qualify as a medical aesthetician, one must have a strong background in physiology."
In a med-spa, the relationship between a client and an aesthetician is different from one expected between
a therapist and client at a regular spa.
For starters, Mona says, clients tend to have higher expectations from a med-spa. "A client visits when he or she hasn't been able to treat conditions through methods such as topical applications, regular facials and oral medication."
This affects their confidence hence medical aestheticians have to be solicitous. "We need to deal with clients in a sensitive manner," says Mona.
Another reason for high expectations is the cost. "The purchase and maintenance of equipment and training involve high costs. Ergo, treatments are expensive.
Unfortunately, cosmetic treatments are not covered by medical insurance. This means a client will look for value for money," says Mona. At Biolite the initial consultation can take up to
45 minutes, where a client is expected to provide crucial information like medical history.
"We then proceed to discuss treatment options, method, time scale, possible side effects, after-care guidelines and cost," says Mona.
Then it is time to set realistic expectations. "They have to make an informed decision. We give them time to think about it before signing up.
For example, a few treatments that use laser or IPL or certain peels can cause minor redness and other skin reactions. They need to know that," she says.
Med-spa regulations
A med spa like any other medical clinic has to be regulated by a health body. "They provide licences to perform treatments," says Mona.
In the UK, the Healthcare Commission regulates clinics like med-spas. One can check inspection reports on their website to check for compliance. "These are slowly coming into place in the UAE as well," she says.
At DHCC, thorough inspections are conducted on a routine basis and having dealt with inspectors in the UK, Mona says, "I am confident Biolite meets global standards."
Core treatments
"Like any med-spa, our range of treatments is client-specific," says Mona Mirza, medical aesthetician and founder of Biolite Skin Clinic, Dubai.
Here are a few treatments Biolite offers:
Permanent hair reduction.
Microdermabrasion, which helps remove the outer layer of the epidermis, and is a great treatment for any skin type especially those with acne scarring and sun damage.
RF (Radio Frequency) based treatments for skin tightening at a cellular level.
Biolite also stocks two eponymous ranges – cosmeceutical skincare and mineral make-up. "We have recently invested in our brand of cosmeceuticals skincare and mineral make up range formulated in a laboratory in California.
Mineral make-up is becoming increasingly popular for its protective and curative ingredients," she says.
Carolina D'Souza is Lifestyle Features Coordinator, Friday
