Probiotics have become the buzzword in skincare, helping combat irritations and, some say, even ageing. The stars swear by it too
Many people believe that the so-called "friendly bacteria" in yoghurts do wonders for digestion. New research even claims that these ingredients can help boost our immune systems and control weight.
But probiotics (beneficial bacteria) and prebiotics (essential fuel for the beneficial bacteria) aren't only good for our tummies, they're also the latest buzzword in beauty.
Clinique, Lancome, Chantecaille, Nude and Revive are just a few of the brands injecting bugs into anti-ageing serums and moisturisers in the belief that they help soothe skin — and even turn back the clock. The idea is that probiotics can improve the balance of bacteria in your skin in the same way that they are known to improve it in your gut.
From gut to skin
We all have good and bad bacteria already present in our skin, called skin microflora. However, anything from overly astringent cleansers to sunburn and alcohol can also disturb the balance of bacteria, which, in turn, affects the skin, causing it to become sensitive or develop acne or even eczema.
Two studies have shown that topical probiotics helped fight eczema and acne by restoring levels of "good" bacteria in the skin. But before you start slapping a yoghurt drink on your face, experts say that the probiotics used in creams are designed to penetrate the skin in a way yoghurt is not able to.
Clinique has been researching the beauty benefits of friendly bacteria for the past ten years and has found that probiotic creams soothe general irritation and inflammation — which is why it has added a bacteria called Lactobacillus to its Redness Solutions Make-Up.
The British skincare company Nude was the first to develop a whole brand of skincare around friendly bacteria. Its Advanced Cellular Renewal Serum, launched in September 2010, sold out worldwide. Celebrities, including Helena Christensen, Uma Thurman, Kim Cattrall and Erin O'Connor, claimed it was a "knock-out".
"We use probiotics in high concentrations in our anti-ageing products," says Emma Newman, product manager for Nude. "They also stimulate the skin's immune system, repairing natural defences, preventing collagen damage and hydrating the skin, slowing the ageing process."
For now, however, experts urge caution, as the research into probiotic creams is still in its infancy. "I think there is a lot of hope and hype here," says Dr Nick Lowe, consultant dermatologist. "While there is some evidence that probiotic creams can help fight eczema and acne, the research is not there yet to prove it can help with anti-ageing. It's true that if you can reduce inflammation, you can reduce the rate of ageing, but people should also understand that normal healthy skin has its own system for managing bacteria."
Experts advise sticking to probiotic supplements or yoghurts for general wellbeing and maybe trying probiotic creams if you have sensitive, spot-prone skin.