No shrinking violets

Walking into a Yves Saint Laurent show is a little different from going to other designer's presentations. It's lacking in something.

Not to worry, though. There's no deficiency in the legendary French fashion house, which is now helmed by Milan-born Stefano Pilati.

At many shows, designers attempt to define their collection with a theme, and express it not only through the clothes, but also through a sort of programme, which is laid on each seat before the show.

YSL has never been interested in working to a narrow theme; neither does the house want to impose an interpretation of the ideas presented. So it doesn't attempt to interpret them at all — and therefore doesn't produce a programme.

The fun of all this is that everyone comes away with their own reading of the show.

That said, the ideas behind Pilati's spring/summer collection, which debuted in Paris last October, were pretty evident.

In that Paris show, (nearly) replicated in a special presentation at the Godolphin Ballroom in the Emirates Towers Hotel last week, models walked precariously down a runway planted with violets.

Although the show was a success in terms of the clothes and the creativity, even the fashionistas had to admit that the impractical runway marred the presentation.

Here in Dubai, live flowers were eschewed in favour of a plain purple ramp, but the pastoral feeling remained.

Models appeared in blowsy white dresses and gypsy headscarves, looking like upmarket milkmaids.

Flowers were in evidence, either printed on long, inevitably purple dresses, on a shirt front, or as delicate appliques forming, en masse, the skirt of a charming cocktail dress.

The cut of the clothes was generally fluid from the waist down, with flowing trousers and gowns, although there were many tailored pieces which hugged the body. Jackets were still cropped and skirts were still bubbles.

Next to the sharp tailoring and short but sweet dresses, a red cotton coat looked dowdy and out of place, although the red suede platforms teamed with it are sure to be a hit.

The talented Mr Pilati

The YSL show opened with the label's menswear line, a fresh and laid-back collection that seemed to draw inspiration from cool '60s Italian style.

There was more than a touch of The Talented Mr Ripley on show, with beige checked linen pants, easy open-necked polo shirts and jaunty cravats that had an air of dreamy relaxation.

There were even campy sailor stripes that looked like they had just got off the boat from Capri and wide-legged trousers that were a nod to Popeye. Most of the trousers on show were cropped to the ankle, even the tuxedo pants, which were shown with red socks and Hugh Hefner-velour slippers.