Do teenagers really need retinol? UAE experts warn viral skincare routines may harm young skin

Ah, if only I knew about skincare routines at the age of 13. Could I have been able to avoid attending school with pimple-dotted eyebrows, and woefully counting them every morning?

We’ll never know.

But TikTok influencers now do. With teens now mimicking influencer routines, testing hacks, and slathering on products like retinol and asking about squalene, it’s no surprise that skincare shelves are now packed with lines made just for them.

But the question remains: Do teenagers really need their own skincare products? Or is this just another marketing trend?

Teen skin isn’t just younger. It’s biologically different. As Gaelle Chalhoub, Specialist Dermatology, Medcare Medical Centre Palm Jumeirah explains, “Skin biology and skin needs are different at every stage of life. In teenagers, our main focus for skincare should be regulating excessive sebum production in order to avoid clogged pores and acne breakouts that often result from it.”

Chalhoub and Dr Shumez Hameedullah, Specialist Dermatologist at Kaya Clinic add that harsh anti-aging treatments containing active ingredients such as retinol, for example, may irritate their skin barrier unnecessarily and even cause more harm than good. While adult skin often focuses on anti-aging, pigmentation, and elasticity, those concerns haven’t even started to show up in teenage skin.

As experts say, the only skincare rule that’s universal across all ages is sunscreen use, though teens should opt for lightweight, gel-based formulas to suit their oily, breakout-prone skin.

No doubt, skincare has gotten big, especially with the flood of Korean products taking the world on storm and new terms dominating our feeds everyday. One day, it's snail mucin. The next, you're wondering about cica. It is now a full-blown phenomenon, with young users mimicking 10-step routines seen on influencers and beauty vloggers.

Mums like Merna Amin, who is also the marketing manager at Luxuria Group explains that indeed, it is essential for teenagers to have a skincare routine that is suitable for their age, skin type and skin concerns.  “During your teenage years, your skin will go through a lot due to hormonal changes, which makes the development and availability of these teenage specific brands all the more important,” she explains.

She adds that while the trend can promote good habits like using sunscreen early, it’s crucial to avoid products designed for older, mature skin. “If they are not careful with what they are using or how much they are using, this could lead to additional issues or make things worse.”

Moreover, teen skin is still developing and delicate. And, it can react quickly, harshly to misuse, especially when ingredients such as retinol, squalene or salicylic acid are involved, without prior knowledge.

When self-care goes a little too far

So what’s the harm in an enthusiastic skincare routine? A lot, if the products don’t match the skin type. “Teenagers are drawn to Insta-viral brands, containing formulations that should not be used on teenage skin,” notes Dr. Hameedullah. “Most of the viral social media skincare routines followed by teenagers can damage skin barrier, increase sun sensitivity, cause irritation, redness, or even worsen breakouts.”

That’s where teen-specific brands can offer a safety net: They simplify routines, eliminate harsh actives, and offer formulations tailored to younger, more reactive skin. But that doesn’t mean teenagers can go wild with layering serums. “Although teenage-targeted skincare brands are safer alternatives, one ought to use it responsibly,” he adds.

Back to basics: What should teenagers actually use?

The expert consensus is clear: when it comes to teenage skincare, less is more.

A simple routine should include:

Skincare isn't just about the surface. For most of us, and especially teenagers, it tends to be tied to confidence, mental health and feeling good. Teenage years are already filled with nerve-wracking hormonal changes, and for most, the worth lies in the appearances. As Amin recalls from her own personal experience, “I personally suffered with oily skin and acne during my teenage years, and I wish I had more knowledge about the importance of a suitable skincare regimen back then… I also wish I had access to brands and products that were suitable for my age and my skin concerns.”

Her advice for parents and teens? Don’t fall for every trend. Keep it simple. And always, always wear SPF.