Take the bait at Esca

Sitting outdoors at the turn of the season, overlooking the Al Qamardeen Hotel's swimming pool, dinner at Esca was a brilliant idea.

My partner and I were escorted to our table amidst a sea of smiles, which didn't fade over the course of the evening. Perhaps even more enjoyable than the Italian fare available, was the environment that surrounded us. The evening was tranquil, the staff discreet but attentive and the odd bird chirping away created just the mood I wanted for my evening.

Starters were an interesting affair. Should we choose from the à la carte or opt for the Assortimento di Antipasti, a selection of hot and cold antipasti starters from the buffet counter? A peek at the buffet revealed mussels, salmon, cheeses and just about everything my gluttonous mind craved.

Segregated into two halves, hot and cold, the antipasti was divine. While I couldn't get enough of the marinated mussels with chopped onions, my partner, a man with a delectable palate himself, raved for days about the crab meat mousse cake and the lamb dumpling with apricot and mint sauce.

For a man who shies away from his vegetables, it was credit to the chef that my partner couldn't resist a second serving of the gratinated broccoli, creamy, crunchy and served in just the right proportions.

Moving on to the mains, the sound of Salmone alla Aspretto di Pesca e Riso al Pesto (grilled salmon with peach and pesto rice), sounded irresistible.

True to expectations, the dish was a gastronomical delight. Layered with peach on the base and a bisque froth on the top, the sandwiched salmon picked up the sweetness of the peach that soon gave way to the aromatic flavour of the fish, while the froth swirled around in comp-lementary perfection.

My partner opted for the Ravioloni ripieni di Ricotta e spinaci Saltati con burro e erbe di Stagione. If that sounds like a mouthful, wait till you taste it.

In between the divine flavours of my fish, I couldn't resist nibbling on the home-made pumpkin ravioli, stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese, sautéed with butter, sage, basil, lemon zest, rosemary and topped with parmesan cheese shelves.

The first bite was almost like walking into an herbal spa. The taste of sage, basil rosemary and lemon zest complemented the sweet undertones of the pumpkin.

So far, it was a night of gourmet indulgence bordering on gluttony. Little did I realise that the chef's signature dessert would turn my gastronomical adventure into a full-blown cardinal sin. The Soufflé al Cioccolato d'amato was a temptation. My partner's napoletana cake with ricotta cheese, barley and candy, paled in comparison.

While wolfing down mouthfuls of the oven baked soufflé of Tuscan Amadei bitter chocolate served with vanilla ice cream and a warm berry compote, I realised my need to share a dish this perfect. The gooey centre of the soufflé was surrounded by the well-baked chocolate, sprinkled with powdered sugar, creating a festive feel, perfect for this time of year.

Although a bit high on the spectrum — a total bill of Dh520 — a visit to Esca is well worth its price tag. It's intimate enough to serenade a loved one or indulge in some family bonding over a quiet, delicious meal.

Meal for two: Dh520