Six of the best eateries in the city

From pub grub par exellence to everyday French elegance, Friday takes on the challenge of finding an eatery in Dubai to suit every taste

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12 MIN READ
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Supplied pictures
Supplied pictures

Mazina, The Address, Dubai Marina

Vegetarians rejoice! Though it isn’t a meat-free restaurant, and even boasts steak nights every week, at last I’ve found a menu with tasty vegetarian dishes. Welcome to Mazina, the chic eaterie at The Address, Dubai Marina.

With sweeping views overlooking the water, it’s difficult to know what to look at first – the bright lights of the Dubai skyline, the show kitchens creating Catonese, Arabic, Asian and European dishes, or the day’s menu.

Normally, I struggle to find anything more exciting than avocado salad in between the majority of most Dubai restaurants’ surf’n’turf listings, or a goat’s cheese tart at corporate events.

But Mazina’s friendly waiter guides me straight to the vegetarian options and confidently says that he can ask the chef to make something off menu if
I don’t fancy anything on offer.

There’s green peas and mint risotto, butternut squash with gnocchi, vegetable parda with kewda basmati rice, but I’m intrigued by the name of one dish, Paneer makhanwala. I fell in love with paneer – slices of cottage cheese – during a trip to Jodhpur earlier this year. “This is delicious,” the waiter promises, and so I sit back, soak up the elegant ambience, and try not to get too excited about my choice.

When it arrives it doesn’t disappoint. The paneer is wrapped in banana leaves, like a gift to unwrap, and the rich, creamy gravy sits alongside a cashew-crusted potato bhaji. The inviting aromas coming from the buttery, tomato, onion and delicately spiced sauce – the makhanwala – made my guest wish she’d ordered the same, but I refused to share. It’s not often we vegetarians get to feel superior!

My portion was generous, but soon disappeared along with a few ‘mmms’ and “oh-you-should-try-this-oh-too-late-I’ve-eaten it-all!” exclamations.

Usually, I can’t wait to race through the main course to enjoy dessert, but I wanted to savour the Paneer makhanwala some more. So it was with sadness that I ordered a lemon sorbet and I made sure I licked my lips a few more times to capture the last tastes of an amazing Punjabi dish. Then, sorbet finished, I ventured over to my favourite food station – the cheese counter, where I helped myself to Stilton, Brie, Edam, Camembert, and crackers.

It was a global feast, without any meat or fish in sight, though my carnivore guest found plenty to eat and declared it all ‘scrumptious.’
Perfect for vegetarian Diwali, Mazina is a fantastic place to eat all year round. 
Contact: 04 8883444

-- Karen Pasquali Jones

Butcher Shop and Grill, The Walk, JBR

It was hot, it was humid and it was a crowded weekend evening on JBR Walk, but that didn’t stop the queue of hungry customers waiting to be seated outside at the Butcher Shop and Grill. I’ve always found JBR a hard culinary nut to crack – I either choose the wrong places or am overwhelmed by the variety of options and retreat to somewhere familiar – but, with that many people clamoring to get in, there had to be something good about this place.

Breezing past the line with our prior booking, our table in the cool indoors gave us a good view of those committed souls braving it with the external air conditioner. The black and white checked floors, marble countertops, dark wood accessories and forest-green walls looked clean and stylish but not stuffy. A South African concept, the Butcher Shop and Grill sells deli foods for retail and specializes in South African delicacies such a boewors and sosaties.

Nevetheless the menu spans a whole range of international cuisine from French-inspired dishes to those with an Italian, Portuguese and Arabic twist. We were greeted with a pillowy soft brioche, with a selection of pesto, plain and anchovy butter, along with an appetizer plate of aromatic and spicy biltong. As a non-meat-eater, restaurants with the word ‘butcher’ in aren’t always exactly my cup of tea, but the menu featured a decent number of vegetarian meals such as Mushroom aux gratin or Grilled halloumi, on top of the array of fish, seafood and chicken dishes plus, of course, the swathes of juicy burgers and succulent-sounding steaks.

I opted for dishes on the Chef’s specials menu, which changes every few weeks and spotlights dishes from all sorts of nationalities. My starter was a Goat’s cheese and mushroom stuffed arancini – Arborio rice rolled and lightly fried - which was some of the best I’ve ever tasted, perfectly crunchy on the outside, bursting open with creamy, glossy rice on the inside. My companion took the waiter’s recommendation and went for the sticky chicken wings – generously basted in BBQ sauce, they came with sweet chilli and a blue cheese dip. Both starters were so well proportioned that we barely needed to go onto our mains. We were glad we did though. I’ve always been a bit of a lobster skeptic and my Prawns thermidore underlined that for me the shrimp is the tastiest crustacean of them all – dense and plump, the three huge prawns were smothered in lightly grilled cheese and were a wickedly indulgent treat.

My companion chose the Wagyu steak. We were told that the tender and well-marbled meat originated from Australia and it was cooked an ideal medium rare – still pleasantly pink inside and nicely charred outside - and came with a selection of BBQ, peppercorn and mustard seed sauces. We were intending to decline dessert but were too weak to resist the call of the tempting sticky toffee pudding and crème brulee, rounded off with a refreshing cammomile tea. Delicious as the puddings were, it was the mains that left us with food fantasies on leaving the Butcher Shop and Grill, and I’m eager to go back for more of the same. I’d even be willing to queue outside.
Contact: 04 428 1375

-- Tabitha Barda

Traiteur, Park Hyatt

Nestled deep in the Park Hyatt’s lush green property is Traiteur, the hotel’s gorgeous creekside French eatery. The restaurant is awe-inspiring – the space is massive with sky-high ceilings and geometric walls that look as though they have been carefully folded out of origami paper. The open-concept kitchen makes the space feel laid-back and exciting, and allows you to see right, hear all the sounds and smell all the heavenly scents as your food bakes and bubbles.

Intimidated by French food? Well don’t be. Chef Simon Wipf has recently re-vamped the restaurant’s offerings so it’s a little more casual and accessible, while still retaining that unmistakable French sophistication.

I started out with a piping hot bowl of French onion soup, while my date opted for the salade Niscoise. Both safe and perhaps unadventurous choices, you may think, but we felt we had to test the basics. My date’s salad was incredible, adorned with perfectly seared slices of pink tuna and a soft-boiled quail egg. “Wow, crafted by a true professional,” he raved after his first bite.

My soup was so incredibly homely and moreish, I’m still dreaming about it. The Grueyre was warm and gooey with a perfect crispy crust on top. I can think of very few things that are better than that.

After noshing on some bread and fois gras, which was silky smooth and sinfully rich, our mains arrived.

I had selected the roasted lamb rack that sat on a bed of the most exquisite coco bean ragout. The meat was cooked to perfection, was perfectly tender and delicately spiced. My date, feeling quite decadent that evening, had chosen the butter poached lobster with vegetables and tarragon. Both were divine.

Our server had recommended we select three side dishes to share alongside our main, so of course, we obliged. We enjoyed our mains with steamed asparagus spears, forest mushrooms and the most incredible potatoes gratin I have ever had (sorry mum!). The presentation was lovely and it all tasted incredible.

We were so busy devouring every last morsel on our plates that we didn’t even notice that the restaurant had started to fill up with small groups, all chatting and laughing, enjoying their meals too. I was surprised – the place was quite buzzy for a mid-week dinner.

After dinner we couldn’t possibly imagine diving into the dessert menu right away, so we took a short walk outside along the creek. It was a perfect night. To the soundtrack of the live piano music at the outdoor restaurant next door, we admired the gorgeous view – probably one of the best in the city. From Traiteur’s terrace you can see the skylines of both old and new Dubai and luxurious yachts moored in the marina.

We decided to take advantage of the beautiful night and enjoy our dessert outside. I didn’t need to think twice – the moment I saw it on the menu, I knew the warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream had to be mine. My date felt the same. When it arrived I pushed my spoon gently into the outer layer of the cake and warm chocolate slowly oozed out. I scooped a little on my spoon with some ice cream and a raspberry. What a perfect way to end a beautiful night.
Contact: 04 317 2222

-- Anna AbouZeid

Masala Craft, Century Village, Garhoud

The mixed platter of kebabs wasn’t actually my choice. I was keen to have Paneer patrawala – a dish of cottage cheese marinated with a mixture of ground mint leaves and spices, grilled and served wrapped in a banana leaf. “Sure, we’ll get you that but you must try our signature mixed grill platter,’’ suggested Ankit Bhargava, the extremely helpful F&B manager at Masala Craft after he knew my penchant for grills. I agreed and I must say that it was a good decision.

The mixed grill platter had some of the most succulent pieces of lamb, hammour and a generous number of tiger prawns, marinated in a spice mixture and grilled to perfection. Accompanied with the mint and chilli chutney which was tangy and spicy in equal measure, it set the pace of what was to come.

For the main course, we – the wife and I – ordered murgh dum biryani, which had just the right amount of spices that does not leave you all sweaty and reaching for your handkerchief. The chicken pieces were delicately flavoured with saffron, Kashmiri chilli and other spices and the rice was cooked just right with just the right bite. Served in the traditional clay pot it was easily one of the best biryanis I’d had in a long time.
 The highlight of the meal was without doubt the murg khatta pyaaz, a unique chicken dish prepared with pickled small onions. It’s a dish that I’ve not been able to spot on a lot of menus serving Indian food in Dubai.

Tangy, thanks to the pickled onions and flavoured with a mélange of Indian spices, the meat dish was perfect with the assortment of rotis (flattened breads) that were served hot from the oven.

Masala Craft, a cosy little place in Century Village, in Garhoud, has a pleasant ambience that makes it ideal for small get-togethers. Apart from the comfy seating indoors, there are a few tables placed outdoors which are a huge draw particularly now that the weather has improved. “We have a lot of people who prefer sitting outdoors and having a meal under the stars,’’ says Ankit.

Inside, the lighting may be a tad dim but what sets this restaurant from many of the other Indian outlets of its ilk is the restrained use of kitschy desi artifacts. There is no overdose of Indian objets d’art, the colour red or painted clay pots and silk swathes common in many desi restaurants.

To wind up the meal with a desert we opted for gulab jamuns which was soft but with just the amount of bite. Subtly flavoured with the essence of rose, it was perfect to end a meal. I will be returning there soon.
Contact: 04 282 9626

-- Anand Raj OK

Gypsy Chinese, Dhow Palace Hotel, Bur Dubai

Gypsy Chinese has a reputation for being a friendly casual-dining spot that also happens to be popular with those in the public eye in its native India, including budding artists and Bollywood celebrities. The brand has now opened its first restaurant in Dubai in the Dhow Palace Hotel.

What struck me when I entered the restaurant was its warm, bohemian vibe – all rustic, terracotta-coloured walls and cosy booth seating. It’s clear this place is a hit with families – the restaurant was practically vibrating with kids’ chatter.

We arrived after 9pm on a Thursday night and it was still a hive of happy activity, although the higher pitched voices had mostly petered out by the time we had ordered and a more grown-up atmosphere settled upon the room.

Having never tried ‘Indianised Chinese’ before, I was intrigued by the vast and varied menu, and impressed by the tantalising array of vegetarian dishes, along with the many seafood and meat plates and an inventive drinks list.

I found it hard to limit my options but ended up sharing the steamed wontons as a starter, which featured delicious morsels of glistening prawn that I am craving as I write, along with the Shanghai fish – a sensational blend of Indian and Chinese herbs on succulent and juicy white fish.

My companion ordered the vegetable spring rolls, which I also tried. I don’t know about you, but when I see spring rolls on a menu I imagine stale, sorry-looking grease tubes from tired old take-aways and generally turn my nose up. In this instance I couldn’t have been more wrong – they were fresh, light and packed with spicy, savoury flavour, the batter feathery soft on the inside and deliciously crisp and toasted on the outside.
The generous array of Indian and Chinese style sauces and chutneys on the table added zing to each bite as we experimented with the different tongue-tingling chilli levels.

The starters were a hard act to follow, although my prawns with crab sauce tried its best, as did my companion’s burnt chilli lamb. The vegetariandishes unexpectedly shone, with side orders of Vege fortune rice and Vege sizzling noodles, which arrived hot and sputtering from the kitchen on griddle plates and had a punchy, garlicky grilled flavour.

We took an uncharacteristic decision and rounded the meal off with an interesting-sounding date pancake. It’s not the kind of thing I would generally order but I suspected Gypsy Chinese might pleasantly surprise me, and I was rewarded with a crunchy and homely taste of childhood, all cinnamon, sugar and comforting hugs from Grandma.

So, Chinese yet Indian, boho yet family-oriented, and with spring rolls surprisingly delicious – Gypsy Chinese is a puzzling yet pleasing little gem of a place that’s sure to evoke fond memories in those from India and is well worth a visit. Be sure to bring the kids, and leave room for dessert. 

Contact: 04359 9992 Ext 8234

-- Tabitha Barda

The Huddle Sports Bar and Grill in Citymax, Bur Dubai

Many would admit that a certain amount of gastronomic debauchery comes into play when one comes across a ‘All you can eat and drink for a fixed price’ offer. The moment one comes face to face with an offer of this nature, the eyes get bigger, the mouth begins to water and one begins to rub hands with glee and anticipation, gratification is all one seeks at the moment. But to me these offers are a cause for all consuming dilemmas that have the potential of scarring my psyche for a long time after . Seriously. Should I nibble my way up the buffet spread, even though I don’t really fancy half the things that are vying for my attention or should I pile my plate with a couple of dishes that my palate is familiar with? Should I bother about those around me who are turning their nose up at the amount of food I have on my plate or worry about what the weighing scale will reveal the next morning? And eventually wonder if it was all worth my dirham.

If you are wondering what the purpose of this exaggerated prologue is then let me tell you that it is an understated expression of my state of mind while I was entering The Huddle Sports Bar and Grill in Citymax, Bur Dubai one Thursday night. Adding to the conundrum was the fact that I had not been to a pub – especially for food – for a very long time.

Anyway, went in, husband, moi and my heightened trepidations and wham! We literally walked into a solid wall of buzz. It seemed that the place was home to various versions of the iconic comic character Andy Capp. From the flat stomach, bicep popping, spiked hair young ones to the older ones in ‘slim fit’ tees, tattoos on display and hair line that had seen better days, it was evident that everybody was having a good time. Actually a very good time, considering that the bartender was working at top speed trying to fulfill all the orders that kept coming in fast and, in some cases, furious.

After having settled down in our softly-lit booth, husband and I decided to get down to business at hand - eating. Heightened trepidations at this point decided to exit the place as I realised that nobody in the pub seemed to be bothered about what was happening in their neighbourhood. From batter-fried Fish amritsari that had the right amount of carom seeds, according to husband, to Chicken Manchurian that was not drenched in soy sauce and chunks of potatoes that were grilled to perfection, we literally annihilated it all in no time. Helping the process was our orders of delightfully tangy Virgin Mojitos and Melrose, the lead singer of the resident band Night Shift. The woman rocks … literally. The woman in question sang several rock classics but for me the highlight was ACDC’s ‘Highway to Hell’. Head banging, air guitaring … I was very soon one with the innumerable Andy Capps in the room.

Anyway coming back to the business of eating, we decided to sample the goods in the maincourse section of the buffet. The very mexican Pineapple rice with very the Indian veggies in a rich buttery sauce came together beautifully on my palate. The slightly sweet and tangy flavours of the pilaf and the mild flavours of the curry had me going for seconds. Absolutely lipsmackingly good.

Well at this point, if husband and I were accused of gastronomic debauchery, we would’ve pleaded guilty ... no questions asked. But the fact that we didn’t even look at the dessert section should work in our defence.

By the way, I never said that gastronomic debauchery is that bad a thing. After all, it’s all about satiation and boy were we satiated.
Contact: 04 409 8000

-- Mrinal Shekar  

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