Posh spice

tabloid! discovers the delights of a decadently delicious Thai.

"This seems like the kind of place where you'd catch someone doing something they shouldn't," my dining partner whispered as we walked into the Mango Tree.

The Thai restaurant at Souq Al Bahar, near the Burj Dubai, doesn't come across as a den of iniquity, but I know what she meant. I had the same feeling as we manoeuvred our way between tables and secretive booths in the darkened room — that this place was somewhere to escape to enjoy a tryst — or perhaps just a green curry.

That feeling is probably down to the stillness of the souq on the Sunday evening we were there, its dark halls echoing as we made our way to the restaurant.

Mango Tree itself, if not buzzing, was lively enough — the extensive and creative drinks menu probably had something to do with that. We started off our meal with the usual prawn crackers and chilli sauces, eventually having to forcibly restrain ourselves from downing all of the moreish little snacks in anticipation of our starters.

Unable to choose between the array of hot and cold starters, I opted for the mixed platter as suggested by our waitress. Happy that som tam (spicy green papaya salad) was included, my dining partner agreed, and we dug in. Sticks of beef satay were juicy and flavourful, and the peanut sauce had just the right degree of chunkiness. Thai fish cakes are not for everyone — they are mashed to a pulp before being fried, giving them the texture of rubber balls — but I'm a fan of their herby saltiness. The chicken in pandan leaves was gently fragrant, but benefited from a sweet-soy sauce served on the side, while prawn spring rolls were a bit of a let down, needing a more substantial and flavourful filling.

An interlude here, at a natural point in the meal and the review, to tell you that Mango Tree is as much a restaurant as a source of quirky home décor. Order still water, and you'll be presented with a colossal glass bottle of VOSS (the water of choice backstage at this year's New York Fashion Week, I might add). If you're as inspired as my dining partner, you'll take it home for use as a vase/coin holder/conversation piece.

Flavourful

The Mango Tree has a great menu for those who are unfamiliar with Thai food, breaking things down into neat categories, which also works well in tempting you into things you wouldn't normally go for. This was the case when I turned to the page entitled "Charcoal grill". Despite suggestions from the waitress to try the lobster with spring onion (on the "Specialities" page), my eyes (and stomach) were irresistably drawn to the word charcoal. More specifically, the promise held by the giant prawns on the grill, served with lime-chilli dipping sauce. (The last time I had prawns on the BBQ was a couple of weeks before at Bab Al Shams, where I went back for thirds. I'm weak-willed when faced with barbecue.)

Sadly, the prawns here didn't live up to the promise, cooked a little too long and slightly dry. They were giant, that much is true, but would have benefited from a few minutes less on the grill. The crazy hot sauce, tangy and fiery, is a chilli-lover's dream though, so next time I'd go for something else on the grill — the lamb chops perhaps — just to get to that fresh-but-fierce flavour. It did lead me to order a mango juice in a desperate attempt to quench the heat. See how you fare.

A red curry with beef had heat, tempered by a soothing quality afforded by coconut milk, and made for a flavourful, juicy dinner teamed with fragrant steamed rice.

By the time dessert rolls around, my dining partners, as usual are begging me not to tempt them further, and in appeasement, I was going to order the ice cream — coconut sounded lovely — but then the waitress, catching us at an indecisive moment, suggested the water chestnuts in coconut milk with jackfruit.

"Isn't that the stinky fruit?" my partner asked. Well, if terms of whiff, it's not durian, but it's pretty close. I wouldn't want to ride in a closed car with it.

This jackfruit, though, was dried, becoming chewy and sweet, without attacking your nostrils. Here, it topped off a lurid glass of hot pink spheres bobbing about in pure white coconut milk, the whole thing accented by a spoonful of … shaved ice.

Don't be scared off: the water chestnuts (that's the hot pink chewy things to you and me) are like mega bubble tea balls, with an exterior like chewy tapioca and crisp inside. The coconut milk is sweet and refreshing and the ice, well, melted. But it's all good. The dessert tastes nice — and it will make you laugh. Which is always good when you're having dinner with someone you shouldn't.

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