Fowl fare

As regular readers of this page will know, I'm not the biggest fan of chicken. It's generally the blandest option — so it usually doesn't make for riveting reading. But that's not the full story.

If I were to do reviews of my mother's cooking — or my grandmother's, for that matter — chicken would feature heavily, in their cure-all noodle soups, roasted on Sunday or fried, with homemade chips and garlic sauce. (And of course they'd all rate five forks, out of loyalty and a little bit of fear.)

Chicken is comfort food for meat-eaters, especially when served with mashed potato. But what really convinced me to order chicken recently at The Observatory, the Harbour Hotel's top-floor restaurant, was skin. Because what's the chicken without the skin? It's what makes KFC possible, and addictive.

The Observatory's chicken (organic, of course) comes with side dishes of steamed vegetables, mashed potato and DOUBLE-ROASTED SKIN. I kid you not. It's redemption for all of us who have eaten their fellow diners' discarded chicken skin.

And that skin is amazing, a perfect rectangle of layered roasted skin, which I believe must have then been deep-fried. It's like a piece of puff pastry, flaky and crisp, with all that fried chicken flavour. The chicken it comes with, inevitably, pales in comparison. The parts are served separately, the drier breast alongside the juicy dark thigh meat, chopped small and sauced with a fruity gravy. It's fine. At the end of the day, it's chicken.

The Observatory, apart from the chicken skin, has amazing views going for it, overlooking the Palm from the bar and Dubai Marina from the restaurant. (Take a sweater though, as the AC is glacial.)

Gastro-lounge
It's called a Gastro-lounge, which to me sounds like a fancy waiting room for people going for stomach surgery.

Apart from the chicken, the rest of the menu was a balance of comfort food and weirdness. (Oxtail with lavender penne, anyone? I love to see oxtail on a menu, but that just put me off.)

There are meat cuts rarely seen in butchers outside France these days, like veal cheeks and the aforementioned oxtail, and I would be overjoyed to see them cooked in the way they were meant to be. We haven't had them in so long, can we just give the old way a go for a bit? That would be new.

But an attempt at keeping things simple also didn't work out. My date's starter of consommé with oxtail dumplings should have been simultaneously reviving and relaxing. The broth just wasn't rich enough, and the dumplings were way too doughy, disguising the silken oxtail meat. My scallop starter, recommended by the wait staff, was simply seared — very enjoyable, but I felt I was missing out on something, with all the other options on the menu so exciting and worrying at the same time.

My date's lamb chops, despite her requesting them well done, were still rather pink — after the waiter told her that's how they should be served and, taking his life into his hands, disregarded her threats. Her plate went untouched.

Worrying

Am I a stick-in-the-mud bore because the food at the Harbour worried me more than it excited me? There was a dessert with Coca-Cola in it! I think it's all a bit strange for the sake of it.

But we did have some fun, in the form of spheric fruits. No, I had no idea what the heck that was, either.

They're little balls of fruit puree encapsulated in a thin jellified skin — just like an egg yolk. They were floating in a refreshingly tart cold berry soup, and there was a lot of fun to be had scooping up and and popping them. The mascarpone cream added welcome richness.

The Observatory was a challenge, I'll admit, although I don't think it defeated me, just confused me. Take the Coke and lavender off the menu, and I might be back, by the skin of my teeth.

Checklist

What: The Observatory
Where: The Harbour Hotel, Dubai Marina. Go left at the roundabout in front of Barasti (facing Marina).
Telephone: 04-3194000
Must have: Chicken with double-roasted skin, berry consommé with spheric fruits, the view (and a drink in the classy bar)
Décor: Once the lift whizzes you up to the zillionth floor, it's dark, velvety and cosy.
Ambience: Suitable for romantics — and dinner parties.

Restaurant promotions

Al Sahra Desert Resort
Jumana: Friday barbecue buffet with live cooking stations and entertainment for the children. Dh145 for adults and Dh75 for children under 12.
Phone 04-3679500

Bateaux Dubai
Dinner cruise: Four-course gourmet dinner on a cruise vessel. Dh325, including welcome drink. Phone 04-3994994

Burj Al Arab
Sahn Eddar: A wide range of breakfast options, including vegetarian, from Dh250.
Junsui: Lunch (Dh450) or dinner (Dh550) and 12 live cooking stations.
Al Mahara: Three-course business lunch for Dh395.
Phone 04-3017600

Crowne Plaza Dubai
Sakura: Enjoy an Izakaya party on Wednesday and Friday nights. Dine at the teppenyaki tables, choosing from a wide selection of seafood, vegetables, beef and freshly made sushi for Dh155.
Or opt for an all-you-can-eat Sushiya lunch, featuring sushi, sashimi and maki, on Tuesdays and Saturdays for Dh99.
Oscar's Vine Society: A wide variety of beverages by the glass and a delicate selection of cold cuts, traditional bistro bites and wholesome French food for Dh149 on Saturday, Sunday and Monday nights.
Or opt for the cheese buffet for Dh99 on Tuesday night.
Phone 800-276369

Grand Hyatt Dubai
The Market Cafe: Indulge in a wonderful all-you-can-eat blend of international and local fare for Dh150 including soft drinks or Dh240 including regular brand drinks.
Andiamo!: Italian brunch on Fridays includes a sumptuous collection of antipasti, carvings, pasta, tiramisu and gelato. Dh150 for adults (Dh240 including drinks), Dh75 for children under 12.
Phone 04-3172222

Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa
Al Wasl Ballroom: Celebrate Orthodox Christmas on January 7. Dancing and authentic Russian cuisine for Dh480 per adult and Dh240 per child.
Sunset Lounge: sample a selection of classic tea-time treats such as cucumber sandwiches and mini pastries with carefully selected teas for Dh85.
Phone 04-8836000

Jumeirah Emirates Towers
50% weekdays: Enjoy dinners for half-price at The Agency, ET Sushi, The Noodle House and Scarlett's during the week. Phone 04-3198500.
Mosaico Friday Lunch: Enjoy Mediterranean cuisine featuring an array of Italian classics and originals and a selection of Spanish tapas and main courses for Dh190 or Dh250 with drinks. Phone 04-3300000
The Agency: Indulge in a flavourful antipasti buffet featuring breads, cold cuts, smoked salmon, beef bresaola, chicken pate and cheese for Dh65. Phone 04-3198088

Habtoor Grand Resort & Spa
The Twenty Fifth: Choose between roasted quail stuffed with truffle chicken mousse, garnished with cranberry marmalade and grilled parsnip, or braised quail cooked in veal jus, served on a bed of warm Nicoise vegetables. Both Dh110.
Al Basha: Roasted Hammour fillet with Harra sauce and a glass of red or white beverage for Dh135.
Al Dhiyafa: Bubbly brunch on Fridays featuring a wide selection of culinary delights and drinks for Dh275.
Phone 04-39950000

Hilton Dubai Creek
Glasshouse: Five-course dinner tasting menu for Dh325 or Dh475 including drinks.
Or opt for the free-flowing brunch on Fridays. Choose from classic favourites such as eggs Benedict and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding for Dh250 including drinks. Phone 04-2127551

Hilton Dubai Jumeirah
Shahrzad: Celebrate Rozhdestvo in true Russian style on January 6. Buffet offering traditional Russian dishes and a live band for Dh400, excluding drinks. Phone 04-3182530

Hyatt Regency Dubai
Shahrzad: Lunch and dinner set menus offer seafood from Iran, complemented with herbs from the region. The five-course set menu includes caviar for Dh400 and the four-course set menu is Dh225.
Shisha Lounge: Relax in a lounge chair with various flavours of shisha (Dh45), as well as drinks and snacks.
Phone 04-3172222

Jumeirah beach hotel
Marina: Five-course Japanese fusion menu includes seawater jelly, pink pepper ice cream and edible pina colada for Dh495 or Dh750 with drinks.
Or opt for a bubbly brunch on Fridays with an array of entrees, main courses and desserts. Dh325 or Dh460 with drinks (both include access to 360º).
Phone 04-4068999

Media Rotana Dubai
Channels: Asian theme night features a wide selection of dishes from India, Japan, China, Singapore and Sri Lanka for Dh159, including drinks.
Phone 04-4350000

Park Hyatt Dubai
Traiteur: On Fridays, enjoy brunch and live jazz entertainment in the theatre-style kitchen or outside on the terrace for Dh550 including drinks. Phone 04-3172222
Thai Kitchen: Enjoy an extensive menu of authentic Thai dishes for Dh225 in four open kitchens — one each for wok, grill, noodles and desserts.