Asiana: a noble attempt

Asiana is a good place to go If you love Laska and Beef Rendang Sumatra. Yet it won't quite let you forget the superior dining spots nearby.

If restaurants could be compared to celebrity siblings, then Raffles' Asiana would be Dannii Minogue. While the brunette can carry a tune and is not exactly lacking in the looks department - given a choice to pay top dollar to see either Minogue sister in concert, Kylie is always going to come up trumps.

This is exactly how I felt while dining at Raffles' this past weekend. While Asiana ticked all the right boxes in terms of service and an appetising menu, (albeit a pricey one, with the average main course costing Dh120) the experience felt like a runner's-up prize when its exceptional restaurant sibling, Noble House was achingly within sight.

Best views

Still, as with all family rivalries, Asiana had some unique qualities of its own to boast about. Located in the apex of the Raffles' pyramid, Asiana offers one of the best views in Dubai.

The city stretches out before you through floor-to-ceiling glass windows, and it's a spectacle that can be especially appreciated at dusk while reclining on the outdoor terrace with an aperitif.

Wander inside and you'll find a slick, contemporary interior that is not unique to most Asian-themed restaurants in the UAE. Black floors, dark wood and steel feature strongly in the small space and only the over-sized white leather chairs and a small bonsai tree upon each table top serve to soften the otherwise austere surroundings.

While the seating arrangement is more than comfortable, a gold medal in weightlifting wouldn't go astray to manoeuvre in and out. Fortunately the restaurant's ever attentive staff is on hand to assist with this otherwise cumbersome task.

The diverse menu is where Asiana really excels. With offerings from Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam there's sure to be a dish to satisfy even the most discerning palette. Joined by two dining companions, we were able to sample a wide selection of dishes as most were easily shared.

For starters, one of our trio jumped at the chance to order six-piece platter of hamachi, Atlantic salmon and Yellow Fin tuna having been starved of fresh seafood since moving to Nairobi a year ago. Judging by the sounds of satisfaction as she savoured each piece of raw fish, the selection met with her usually high standards.

I chose the Otah, Otah after reading its tempting description of prawns, coconut milk, tumeric, chilli paste and banana leaf but was left a little disappointed. Once unravelled from its leafy parcel, it revealed a prawn patty - rather than a succulent whole prawn as I'd been expecting.

The chilli provided a little kick but it was quenched with an overly sweet sauce. Our third starter was the Asiana satay - usually a fail safe on any menu - and the plate piled high with juicy pieces of chicken, beef and lamb lived up to its reputation.

Pleasing choices

The main course selection is not devoid of Asian favourites: phad Thai, nasi goreng and char kway teow are all safe and pleasing choices. To wander off the beaten track opt for the restaurant's signature dish, Beef Rendang Sumatra. Having sampled this popular Indonesian dish 10 years ago while travelling through Bali, it's long been a personal favourite. Sadly it's a dish that's rarely found on menus and when so, scarcely cooked to perfection.

Fortunately this was not the case, as the slow-braised Wagyu beef, teamed with lemongrass, kaffir lime and galangal, performed a tantalising dance for the taste buds. The other stand-out was the laksa, a hearty Asian soup which is not lacking in spice or content thanks to Australian lobster, bean sprout and spring onion packed to the bowl's brim.

Refreshing choice

While dessert is not usually a celebrated dish in the Far East, Asiana has several reasons to continue beyond main course. The pineapple gazpacho with is lime granite, fresh lychee and vanilla espuma bursts with citrus flavour and proves to be a refreshing choice to end your culinary journey.

The sticky rice is not average fare either, beautifully presented and served with ripe mango to accompany the smooth taste of the coconut milk and vanilla ice-cream.

Unfortunately we did not linger once our desserts had been devoured, because the ‘doof, doof, doof' music from the upstairs China Moon Champagne Bar became intolerable.

It seemed many other patrons shared the same sentiments as the restaurant was almost completely empty by 11.30pm on a Friday evening. If only the DJ had played Can't Get You Out of My Head.