Cica: Why this K-beauty star ingredient belongs in your skincare routine

In the ever-evolving world of K-beauty, there’s always a new skincare sensation stealing the spotlight. One day, it’s niacinamide, the next, bakuchiol is making a grand comeback. But right now? It’s all about Centella Asiatica—better known as Cica. This herb has skyrocketed to stardom, popping up in everything from calming creams and moisturizers to anti-aging serums and sunscreens. Skincare enthusiasts swear by it.

What makes Cica so special?

As UAE-based dermatologists and make-up specialists explain, Centella asiatica, also known as cica, is a medicinal herb long celebrated for its wound-healing properties and ability to treat skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Rooted in centuries of traditional Chinese medicine, this ingredient has since made its way into modern skincare, appearing in products like sunscreens, serums, lip masks, toners, and night gels.

 According to Eleana Richardson, a UAE-based skin specialist, “It not only hydrates and calms irritated skin, but also strengthens the skin’s protective barrier.”

The secret lies in its unique chemical composition, which includes four key active compounds—asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. These work together to deliver a variety of benefits, from soothing inflammation to boosting collagen production.

The science behind Cica’s benefits

Cica’s potency lies in its triterpenoids—compounds that have been shown to promote skin regeneration, wound healing, and collagen synthesis. A 2011 study published in Pharmacological Research examined the herb’s role in wound healing, finding that it accelerates the process by boosting collagen production and encouraging new blood vessel formation.

Wound healing and skin regeneration

A comprehensive review published in the 2011 medical journal Pharmacological Research examined the pharmacological properties of Centella Asiatica, highlighting its role in wound healing and skin regeneration. The study concluded that Centella Asiatica accelerates wound healing by promoting collagen synthesis and angiogenesis.

Anti-ageing ally

You need an ally in the fight against ageing? Well, Cica can help, due to its rich antioxidant content that combats free radical damage, a major cause of premature skin aging, explains Richardson. “By neutralisng oxidative stress, it prevents cellular damage while stimulating fibroblast activity to boost collagen production, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity.”

 This herb also promotes glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid, improving hydration and plumpness for a more youthful appearance. It can accelerate cell turnover and repair damaged skin reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and roughness, while its anti-inflammatory properties protect against UV-induced aging and sunspots. Additionally, Centella improves microcirculation, delivering oxygen and nutrients to revitalise dull, aging skin, which might just give you that touch of radiance that you need.

 A 2013 article in the journal Pharmacology & Therapeutics discussed how Cica supports fibroblast proliferation, collagen synthesis, and intracellular fibronectin, improving skin tensile strength and aiding in the treatment of photoaging, cellulite, and stretch marks.

A hydration hero

Mallishka Khan, a Dubai-based makeup artist and K-beauty enthusiast explains: Cica pulls moisture from the environment straight into your skin. The natural humectant properties work overtime to attract and lock in hydration, while strengthening your skin’s barrier to prevent water loss. “Not just a moisturiser, it also soothes irritation and calms redness, making it perfect for sensitive or dry skin. Plus, it boosts hyaluronic acid levels that leaves your skin feeling supple,” she explains.

How cica plays a role in blood flow and healing

Cica may also have a positive impact on blood circulation. By improving blood flow, it can strengthen blood vessels and enhance capillary health. This is particularly useful for reducing the appearance of varicose veins and alleviating the discomfort they cause. “Improved circulation accelerates wound healing by delivering essential nutrients and oxygen to damaged tissues,” says Richardson. Additionally, there’s evidence suggesting that Cica may support brain health by improving cerebral circulation, which can enhance cognitive function, memory, and even mood.

A 2013 review in the journal Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine examined how Centella Asiatica may help with chronic venous insufficiency (CVI), a condition that affects blood flow in the legs. The study found that Cica improved oxygen levels, reduced ankle swelling, and enhanced blood flow in veins, easing discomfort associated with varicose veins. However, the review noted that some studies were not well-reported, signaling the need for more research in this area.

Does it have cognitive benefits?

‍There’s ongoing research exploring whether Centella Asiatica can support cognitive function. A 2017 systematic review in Scientific Reports found mixed results from studies on Cica’s impact on cognitive function and mood. While some studies showed promising effects, the overall evidence remains inconclusive, suggesting a need for further research.

Moreover, research from Oregon Health & Science University suggests that Centella Asiatica extract may improve cognition in aged mice and those with Alzheimer's-like conditions. These studies point to the herb’s potential to reduce oxidative stress and enhance mitochondrial function, both of which are factors involved in cognitive decline. However, human clinical trials are still needed to fully assess its cognitive benefits.