Buzzing Bangkok

I clung on as the three-wheeled vehicle tilted precariously, almost sending me flying out of the open side on to the rain-soaked pavement mere metres away. Laughing, the tuk-tuk taxi driver looked back at me through his rear-view mirror adorned with a cacophony of colourful beads, bells and Buddhist emblems. “You’re from London? Yes?” he asked, with a raised eyebrow and glint of amusement in his eyes. Was it that obvious?

I was in Bangkok, ready to take in the sights and sounds of this chaotic capital city, full to bursting with cultural relics, historical architecture and modern-day malls that could almost (but not quite) give Dubai a run for its money.

Within an hour of touching down in the city after a seven-hour night flight on Thai Airways, our jolly guide from the Thailand Tourism Authority, Tavatchai Chuensawadee – or as we called him, Tom – had insisted we stop at the Health Land Spa & Massage centre, about 30 minutes away from the Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Cast aside expectations of five-star pampering – Health Land is what one may call rustically charming. The neat sparse rooms cater for several people at one time with customarily thin mattresses laid out on the floor adorned with fresh flowers and crisp white sheets. The open-plan set-up may seem intimidating, but I was reassured in the knowledge a typical Thai massage is carried out with traditional loose-fitting clothing on.

Next stop was the legendary Lebua at State Tower Hotel, where I’d be staying for the next three nights. Made famous by the hit movie Hangover II, scenes were filmed within the hotel’s custom-made suite and in its iconic Sky Bar on the 63rd floor.

With no time to sign my life away, I quickly showered and headed down to try the buffet brunch in Café Mozu, located poolside on the M floor. With 120 different dishes, fusions of Thai, Middle Eastern and Western cuisine, deciding what to top my plate with was tough. But I plumped for the most of local delicacies; the Yen ta Fo, a spicy noodle soup with chilli, tofu, squid and morning glory – a highly popular spring green in Asian cooking – was delicious.

Next on the agenda was an exploration of the local area. Silom Street is famous in Bangkok as a financial district and is often dubbed the Wall Street of Thailand. Despite this, its streets are bustling with stands and stalls and shopping centres are a mere 10 minutes away by tuk-tuk. Be warned, the incorrigible drivers of these extended motorcycles will often try to con you with tourist prices; from the Lebua to the historic city, for example, you shouldn’t pay more than 100 baht (about Dh11). An open-air journey on the tuk-tuk with its rackety din, along with the smells of street cooking stalls will give you a thrilling, authentic ride, even if you fear being up-ended on to the pavement the entire journey.

This was spent amid the carnival mood of the Thailand Happiness Street Festival, organised by the Thai government. The extravaganza saw the entire Ratchaprasong area – the famous shopping district – come alive with flamboyant parades, traditional street dancing, fashion shows, concerts and culinary delights, with thousands taking to the streets carrying a myriad colourful balloons to be released into the sky at midnight.

Walking through the throngs of party-goers and street vendors to the BTS Sky Train, I kept some room for dinner. BTS is the recently finalised over-ground metro and Bangkok’s latest answer to the city’s chronic congestion problem. It’s cheap, easy and practical for getting around.

After a peaceful night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, I hopped on a coach organised by Tom and PCE Travel Consultants to visit the Don Wai Market. It was a good hour and a half journey to the outskirts of Bangkok, where the scenery rapidly changed from high-rises to leafy mangroves, swaying palm trees and abundant paddy fields.

First off and not to be missed is The Grand Palace, an architecturally fantastic complex of buildings at the heart of the capital. From 1792 it was the official King’s residence, but nowadays it is used purely for occasional ceremonial purposes. Although the majority of the palace is closed to the public, the building is impressive enough and the temples within its walls are the real reason for a visit.

Admission to the Temple and the Central Court of the Grand Palace is 400 baht but note that the fee also includes an admission ticket to Vimanmek Mansion and several other sights around Bangkok that can be used within seven days of your Grand Palace visit.

Of several impressive buildings to see is the Wat Phra Kaew or Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The famous and greatly revered Emerald Buddha – carved from a single block of jade – dates back to the 14th century and stands as the most important Buddhist temple in Thailand. Consequently there is a very strict dress code. Men and women who are showing bare shoulders and legs will have to leave a deposit and borrow longer clothes near the entrance to the Palace and its temples. Inside photography is prohibited, while silence is a must. You are likely to see people grouping around the Buddha’s feet to pray and meditate.

After that impressive visit, it was time to head to the much-talked-about Flower Market (Pak Klong Talard) that lies just off Chinatown. Here both sides of the street are alive with all sorts of floral arrangements and bouquets, from the traditional roses, orchids, and lilies to the typically Thai marigold wreaths and jasmine bracelets. I am told the best time to visit is at dawn when flower-sellers deliver fresh blooms from all over the country and the streets become a kaleidoscopic mix of fragrances and flowers. Nonetheless late afternoons are still a good time as the streets are somewhat quieter. I picked up a fresh jasmine and rose garland (phuang malai), a beautiful scented accessory to hold to my nose on the return journey by tuk-tuk to the Lebua.

I enjoyed breakfast in the hotel’s Café M the next morning under a somewhat overcast sky. But this day was dedicated to the commercial side of the city. The two malls of most interest were the Siam Paragon Mall and the MBK, both within walking distance of one another and a 20-minute drive from my hotel. There is a direct stop for both malls on the BTS Sky train.

For a more rustic, authentic market experience, however, the best port of call is Chatuchak Weekend Market, a haven for bargain hunters. Here visitors find themselves at the mercy of over 15,000 stalls in a shopping bonanza largely regarded to be the largest in South East Asia. Shoppers can grab a deal on anything from clothing and jewellery to furniture and antiques. Remember to pick up a map at the entrance gate as its labyrinth of corridors can be confusing and tricky to navigate.

After traipsing around shops I was looking forward to donning a few new items for my last dinner in Bangkok. A table had been booked at the new but already much-coveted Siam Wisdom in Klongton-Nua. Its chef and director, Chumpol Jaengprai, is a renowned celebrity chef in Thailand, with numerous television performances under his belt. He is also affiliated with Abu Dhabi’s Anantara Hotel Resort as its new Thai culinary director.

The fine dining restaurant is beautifully decorated in traditional décor and guests can choose from ancient, classic and innovative dishes, which change according to the seasons. I tried the Thai crispy pancakes stuffed with crab and kafir lime leaves to start, pea blossom sorbet to cleanse the palate between courses, Wisdom Curry with cassia flowers, young leaves and grilled KU beef as a main, followed by popped rice coated with wild honey served with Kao Kua ice-cream for dessert.

The explosion of delicate local flavours blended with typical Thai hospitality could not have been a better way to seal the final day of what had been an authentic if not somewhat hectic visit. Bangkok on a weekend break is fun, fast-paced and flamboyant, but I would recommend spending some time to not only discover every action-packed corner of this manic yet magnificent metropolis, but to uncover the secret charms that surround Thailand’s crucial and captivating core.