Baku: the best-kept secret

One of the best parts of travelling is discovering those hidden gems in different cities – that rustic café offering the best coffee in town, a bountiful boutique tucked between side streets, or a must-visit market heaped with spices and delicious bites.

It’s rare these days for an entire city to be touted a ‘best-kept secret’, but I am going to go as far as to say Azerbaijan’s capital, Baku, is just that. Even though it’s the largest city on the Caspian Sea and of the Caucasus region and borders Russia, Iran, Georgia and Armenia, no one seems to have heard of it.

And when I added it to my list of places I must visit on moving to Dubai last year – so many friends had recommended it – I wasn’t entirely sure where it was myself. The truth is fewer than 500 people visited from the UAE last year – and that’s a shame.

You can fly to Baku in less than three hours direct from Dubai. The city has all the designer stores a shopaholic could want, five-star hotels galore (530 in total), art galleries, foodie hubs, a vast collection of rare rugs and futuristic architecture, all set against a dusty historical backdrop. The city is smattered with bling, crumbling in parts – and that’s what makes it wonderful right now.

The skyline is dominated by the mirrored curved Flame Towers, which are visible from most areas of the city. They stick out like three huge silver seals rising 190m above low-rise roofs and a sprinkling of minarets as a symbol of Baku’s hi-tech hopes for the future. The three buildings (completed in 2012) are made up of residential apartments, offices and the luxurious Fairmont hotel. Every night from 10pm the towers transform into an incredible light display blazing from red, yellow and orange (like flames) and then into a rainbow of colours and glittering stars thanks to more than 10,000 high-power LED lights.

There’s also the hard-to-ignore concertinaed structure of Crystal Hall – built especially to host the European Song Contest in 2012 – close to National Flag Square and now a music venue with a capacity of 25,000 hosting international stars like Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez. The Heydar Aliyev Center is a picture-perfect building of undulating curves designed by Iraqi-British architect, Zaha Hadid. It’s a conference and exhibition hall, which on opening in 2012 hosted the exhibition of Life, Death and Beauty, showcasing over 100 masterpieces from Andy Warhol. On June 13, the Spanish Flamenco Group will open a new production of the famous Carmen.

Dozens of mind-boggling building projects are currently under way; The Caspian Diamond with glass walls in the shape of diamonds, the almost finished Trump Tower (think Burj Al Arab), the Khazar Islands, which will include a skyscraper that will tower 222 metres higher than Dubai’s Burj Khalifa. Not to mention buildings shaped like lotus flowers, shark fins and mountain peaks.

The Icherisheher meaning ‘inner city’ is the oldest part of Baku and stands behind fortress walls. It has been there since the Middle Ages and is known as the city’s historical core. It was awarded Unesco World Heritage status in 2000 and is a welcomed antidote to all the new and shiny counterparts coming up across the city. It keeps things grounded. Families still live there, it has 18 hotels and a variety of shops, museums and historical monuments.

Take a walking tour through the old town’s maze of narrow crumbling lanes to take in the area’s sightseeing delights like the Maiden Tower (Giz Galasi) built in the 12th century and the official symbol of Baku.

The Maiden Tower hosts an annual art festival that sees painters from over 30 countries from around the world paint small models of the tower in their own national traditions, which are then displayed in its grounds throughout the year.

Another gem to scout out in the old city is Baku’s Mini Book Museum, where you’ll feel big and clever all at once. It houses a private collection of 3,600 mini-yet-readable, super-cute tomes from 47 countries ranging in language from Russian to Vietnamese.

‘I desperately want children to visit the Miniature Book Museum and get interested in books,’ says its founder and curator Zarifa Salahova. ‘Our young people should develop a passion for reading and develop a deep thirst for reading.’

The city has a wealth of museums in and outside the old town – two more worth checking out are Nizami Museum of Literature, which opened in 1939 and is a walk through history via the works of local poets and scribes. And the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum, which opened in 2014 on Baku Boulevard and is shaped like a giant, golden rolled up carpet.

Azerbaijan’s location means its food draws influence from its Russian, Armenian, Iranian and Georgian neighbours, conjuring up an eccentric mix of traditional cuisines.

Expect to find dolma (stuffed vine leaves) in abundance, bozbash (a popular Armenian meaty sour soup made from fat lamb fillet, potatoes, peas, beans and fruits), chikhirtma (a Georgian soup made from chicken, veg and thickened with egg whites) and qutabs (pancakes stuffed with minced meat or spinach) are all delicious. Liver kebab threaded with lamb-tail fat is a well-known local delicacy and worth a try for meat lovers.

Kebabs are also big news and you’ll sample some of the tastiest in every corner of Baku, served with a selection of traditional meze dishes. The city also offers all the international cuisine a visitor may crave, from Arabic to authentic Italian restaurants.

For a modern take on older favourites take a stroll on the Boulevard stretching along the shore of the Caspian Sea to the new Sahil Bar and Restaurant, which is an acclaimed contemporary Caspian eatery.

And for a truly cultural experience seek out Art Garden in the heart of the old town. It’s decorated in Azerbaijani style with a courtyard-style dining area and several private dinner rooms. It’s great for a cup of Azeri tea with oriental sweets or a longer relaxed meal against a backdrop of art exhibitions, events and jazz concerts.

If you love art Baku is the city for you. Yes, who knew, right? The art scene may initially be eclipsed by the upscale architecture and development in the city, but it is a strong undercurrent and burgeoning and exciting scene.

A good place to start is The Azerbaijan State Museum, which offers a wide collection of works by local artists ranging from ancient times to today. The Yeni Gallery in the old town has been a pioneering force for Baku’s experimental art scene since 1986. Yeni means ‘share’ and was formed by the Yarat Contemporary Art Space and all proceeds from sales works shared between the artists.

The Museum of Modern Art (or MIM as it is known) is a delightful airy gallery showcasing a collection of contemporary paintings and sculptures by Azeri and European artists over two floors. The pieces date back to the second half of the 20th century from the present day. Artists on show include local talent, but turn a corner and you’ll notice a hidden space dedicated to European masters such as Dali, Chagall and Picasso. After your art fix you can be refreshed in MIM’s Art Café with its dark floor-to-ceiling paintings on the walls and delicious snacks, drinks and organic dishes.

If sightseeing and culture has left your limbs heavy and aching, head straight to one of the many local and authentic hammams in the city – appointments aren’t necessary.

If you’re looking for the ultimate indulgence there are plenty of five-star spas to choose from. The Espa Spa at The Fairmont, set in Flame Towers, will relax you the moment you step into its softly lit reception area. Set over two floors with breathtaking views of the city from select rooms, it offers revitalisation and gentle activity (think swimming pool, steam rooms, hammam) on floor one and an upper floor with treatment suites to enjoy the likes of a 90-minute Espa four-handed massage.

The Badamdar Spa, Kempinski Baku, is based on the healing elements of nature, inspired by seasonal cycles and the use of pure organic herbs. Signature treatments include Autumn’s Breath, a hammam you can opt for as a group or in an individual VIP suite, or the Spring Renewal – a 180-minute treatment with its vigorous full-body aromatic detoxifying mineral salt exfoliation.

The Four Seasons’ gorgeous penthouse spa focuses on boosting personal health and well-being as well as relaxation by fusing ancient traditions from Turkey and Persia. Think luxe bathing rituals and hammams and all the usual saunas, steam rooms, ice fountains and heated loungers you’d expect from a five-star spa.

Getting there

Direct flights from Dubai to Baku with FlyDubai cost Dh1,100 return. Flights take two hours and 50 minutes.

Stay at Hilton Baku on Azadlig Avenue, a five-minute walk to Baku Boulevard.

Prices from Dh805 per room per night and Dh875 including breakfast.

To book call +994 124 645 000

Spring is a lovely time to visit, but the summer is full of events from art to theatre and street performances, and temperatures reach the early 30s.

Every hour in summer, a cruise leaves just outside Baku’s main harbour terminal to take tourists around the Caspian Sea for half an hour. There are no frills or refreshments but it’s a great way to see the city from another viewpoint.

This year’s European Games take place in the city and it will also play host to Formula One in 2016.