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Weslodge might not be your traditional iftar choice, but after having stood in many buffet queues, the act of jostling around crowds at various food stations while balancing plates has quite lost its appeal. So a table-service iftar at the restaurant, in the 68th floor of the JW Marriott Marquis, sounded very promising for the gastronomy reputation that the restaurant has built up.

The modern American restaurant’s warm, elegant space never gets old with its movie-like vibes; plush sofas, chandeliers, animal skulls and monochrome old-world pictures facing a glittering Dubai skyline form a contrast of sorts that somehow manage to merge well.

The chatty, very knowledgeable Riona helped us navigate the vast menu throughout, breaking down dishes and their ingredients at each step for us — no question lobbed at her left her stumped. We started with pita bread with some golden sweet potato hummus — such a great twist on the classic. Addictive, too.

Next up is a choice between a huge bowl of either Harira or lentil soup. The former wholesome with its lamb and chickpeas, the latter creamy; either choice could fill you up if you aren’t careful.

And that would be a shame for the staggering dishes that are to follow.

One of which is the tender, uber-crunchy, sweet-salty-hot Southern fried chicken in tabasco honey with dill sauce (a main course on the actual venue, refashioned into a starter for the iftar menu). The fried hunks prove again why this dish enjoys such loyalty among numerous diners around town.

The spice-rubbed lamb rib starters are fork-tender and juicy, and the baby gem salad with roast garlic vinaigrette helps break up the meat feast.

On to mains: the giant, giant grill that Weslodge brought in from the US and which uses hardwood and charcoal sure does its job excellently.

The meat falls off the bone in the pastrami shortrib, and while the sirloin with salsa verde was a tad dry, the grilled seabass with jalapeno relish made up for it with its summery charred flavour, freshness and glistening white flesh. The sides of grilled broccoli and roast cauliflower with almond and curry leaf add to the meal so well.

Last course: with an interesting name such as Double Down, we expected a lot out of this. It didn’t disenchant — you can’t really go wrong with a combination of hazelnut brownie, chocolate chip cookie and vanilla ice cream.

Our favourite, however, was the maple brulee with blueberry sorbet and maple-tossed blueberries — the brulee’s creamy richness cut so well by the fresh fruit.

Just like the restaurant’s setting, so much of the food’s a contrast of flavours, but it sure is a scrumptious one. Unconventional yet time-honoured dishes, relaxed yet luxurious ambience, this will do nicely for a special end of fast.

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The details

Where: Weslodge Saloon, JW Marriott Marquis

Timings: From 7pm until late.

Price: Dh235 for a set menu.