Taste of summer in smoky mackerel

I am not sure why this summer seems so vivid, with each day somehow more beautiful than the last. I only know that is the way it feels. The days are moving as if each hour is two and every detail a salad, a bunch of sweet peas or a box of broad beans is somehow richer than it would normally be. It's as if the colours, sounds and scents of summer have been turned up a notch.

All smoked fish works nicely with midsummer ingredients, especially lettuce, peas and beans. Chunks of lightly smoked salmon go well with a mash of creamed peas (cook the peas, chop and stir into a little bit of cream with chopped parsley).

Smoked fish also goes well with lettuce and peas that you have stewed with butter and vegetable stock. Bread to soak up the juices is pretty much compulsory. Those who prefer not to eat bread can try wrapping pieces of smoked fish in lettuce instead.

Warm smoked mackerel with broad beans and tarragon

Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Bring a large pan of water to a boil and salt lightly. Cook the broad beans in the boiling water for five minutes until almost tender. The cooking time depends on the age and size of the beans. Drain the beans.

Remove the thin outer skin from the broad beans. I do this if the beans are any bigger than a fingernail. The easiest way to peel them is to press the cooked beans between your thumb and finger the bright green inner bean should pop out easily. Discard the skins and set the beans aside.

Skin and bone the mackerel and cut each into two fillets. Break the flesh of each fillet into two or three large pieces and place on a square of foil. Brush with a little oil and wrap them up in a loose parcel. Bake for 15 minutes. The fish should be warm rather than hot.

Dice the dried meat and fry over moderate heat until the fat starts to colour (you may need a little butter here). Slice the stems of spring onions and stir into the dried meat. Once the fat on the dried meat has turned pale gold, stir in the spring onions and cook for three minutes over moderate heat until they are soft. Remove the leaves from the tarragon stalks and chop roughly. Stir into the dried meat and spring onions with the skinned broad beans. Pour in the cream, season to taste and allow to bubble for a minute until the cream just starts to thicken. Divide the broad beans between two plates and place the mackerel on top.

Servings: 2