Where: Rhodes Twenty10, Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai. Call 04-3995555

Ambience: Glitzy and fun yet warm and inviting

Must-try: Rhodes signature burger

Dress code: Elegant casual

Open: 7pm-midnight, Tuesday to Sunday

Bowls: Four

Chomping down into a juicy burger I’ve always been plagued by a little voice in my head asking, “Why are you wasting crucial calories on the carb-loaded top and bottom?”

The succulent, flame-grilled hunk of meat, with sauce and extras, is the bit which tastes so good. Ditch the burger bun and go burger guilt-free.

As the man behind one of the city’s top notch steak houses, I wasn’t surprised to find the innovative Mr Gary Rhodes has done just that.

The Rhodes Twenty10 Burger, with roast confit potato, seared foie gras and devilled sauce, (Dh165) hits every spot a burger should — without the carb overload. Divine doesn’t start to explain it.

Nestled at the heart of the Royal Meridien Resort and Spa, Dubai Marina, the restaurant is exactly what you’d expect from a five-star luxury establishment.

Service is impeccable — waiters armed with Harry Potter-style invisibility cloaks, until you down that last sip and they appear like, well, magic. The decor is glitzy but not over-the-top and the prices are what you’d expect — a little on the high side, but value for money is never in question.

The food, like celebrity chef Rhodes, is British and, unlike most places, changes with the seasons.

New this season is the bunless-burger (you can request the bun if you prefer). Exceptional meat is coupled with unusual flavours, bringing the everyday burger into a league of its own. Each mouthful has more than enough to work the taste buds without an oil-drenched bread barrier getting in the way.

Seared spiced scallops and prawns with pink grapefruit, mango and avocado salad (Dh65) are a favourite from the spring menu and I couldn’t help myself — but I didn’t stay all last season. The ribs with orange confit melt in your mouth and the generous stack of nine pieces is plenty for a hearty starter. Beetroot and creamy cheese towers with toasted pine nuts and a creme de mure (black currant) vinaigrette (Dh55) is a fab choice for vegetarians.

Steering clear of my usual choice, the treacle tart (Dh55) was a bit of an ask, but I managed it to try the newly added warm chocolate pudding (Dh55) and — not that I for a second believed I would be — I wasn’t disappointed. It’s exactly what it says it is: warm, chocolately and a pudding consistency. Just as the Rhodes signature sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and toffee ice cream (Dh55) took the city by storm last year, I predict summer 2012 will be chocolatey and bun-free.