Indian dishes gone mod

DUBAI This city is ridiculously spoilt for choice when it comes to high-end Indian restaurants.

In fact, there are so many alternatives here, I wonder if I’d be more hard-pressed for culinary delights from the country if I were in Mumbai, Hyderabad or even New Delhi for that matter.

There’s Asha’s at Wafi, The Bombay at Marco Hotel, Options at World Trade Centre, Indego at Grosvenor House, Mumtaz Mahal at Arabian Courtyard, Zaika at Al Murooj Rotana. And then there’s Ashiana.

Located at the upper lobby of Sheraton Dubai Creek Hotel and Towers, the classy restaurant takes five-star gastronomy to a whole new level.

With its solid wooden interior and intricate carvings, the decorous dining room exudes an ambience of old-world charm – complete with live Hindustani classical music – although the regal backdrop is in stark contrast to chef Vishal Rane’s modern take on his native cuisine.

Pitchforked to Ashiana from London’s popular Mint Leaf restaurant recently, Rane has skillfully blended traditional Indian flavours with European techniques.

Just consider pan-seared Barbary duck breast with achari potato, crisp okra and tamarind sauce on the side, or the innovative masala tea mousse with Italian anise biscotti!

In order to delve more deeply into Rane’s repertoire we ordered the tasting menu. For starters, we had tandoori button mushrooms stuffed with cheddar, baby bell peppers with asparagus and mango chilli and chicken tikka with rocket leaves and smoked paprika raita.

The terrific pre-dinner nibbles gave us an idea of the great things to come but when the main course came it exceeded our expectations.

Particularly good were the pepper corn crusted tuna loin with sesame tossed green beans served with Deccan fish sauce, and the coriander and pistachio stuffed corn-fed chicken breast with asparagus and a delightful tomato fenugreek sauce.

Another ingenious combination that is hugely recommended is their tandoori lamb saddlle served with cumin and garlic spinach and rogan josh sauce.

Despite being a world away from similar Indian renditions, each dish retains its authenticity and distinct flavour. But the best thing about the excellent fare is that it doesn’t give you the bloated feeling that’s usually associated with Indian restaurants.

We rounded the memorable meal with something that goes by the bizarre name of Masala Mousse Tea but tastes sublime. Overall, an exhilarating experience from start to finish.

DETAILS

Meal for two: Dh250

Location: Sheraton Dubai Creek Hotel and Towers, near Banyas street

Timings: Friday to Saturday 7.30-11.30

Sunday to Thursday : Lunch 12–3pm; dinner 7.30 pm-11.30pm

Contact: 04-207 1733