What Mediterranean/Italian

Where Adjacent to Al Shalal Beach Club, Shoreline Apartments, Palm Jumeirah. Tel 04 430 9466

Why For a take on Mediterranean food and gorgeous views of the Palm

Cost Dh400 for a three-course meal for two without drinks

If you, like many people, still find Palm Jumeirah a bit of a mystery, an evening at Gusto provides a taste of the good life on the Trunk. Located at ground level near the Al Shalal Beach Club, at the Shoreline Apartments, the most obvious attraction of Gusto is its knock-'em-dead sea views, which extend beyond Palm Jumeirah's waters to the Burj Al Arab.

Sitting outside is advisable at this time of the year - it steers you clear of the icy air-conditioning draught inside.

As we took our seats, parents, children and maids paraded past, some kids splashed in the pool while the more ambitious jogged along on the beachfront. Living here can't be that bad, could it?

The restaurant is nominally Mediterranean but judging from the menu, Italian appears to be the cuisine of choice.

For starters, I skipped the entrées and opted for the pistachio goats cheese salad. This was complemented by roasted beetroot, caramelised pecan nuts, lentils and salad greens doused in walnut vinaigrette.

The result was a tangy creation offset by the rich sweetness of the beetroot and pecan nuts. Just the medicine for a balmy night.

My wife opted for the seafood soup - a medley of salmon, prawns and mussels bobbing around in a coriander seasoned broth. The stock could've been slightly richer, but otherwise it was superb.

For the main course, my wife chose Gusto's specialty - Lamb Tangine. (Despite the menu's Italian connection, the Moroccan chef's national colours shone through.) The slow braised lamb shank fell straight off the bone and was served with oven roasted pumpkin and vegetables. In all, hearty and really satisfying.

When it came to ordering my main course, I chose to point at the menu than attempt to pronounce "Gamberi e risotto prosecco." Had I paid attention to my Italian lessons at primary school, I would have realised that this stood for "sautéed tiger prawns on a porcini mushroom risotto." It didn't matter though, the prawns were delicious and the risotto, like all good risottos, consisted of Arborio rice lightly glazed in a rich stock. On the side, we shared a plate of grilled vegetables, which is highly recommended.

The service is brisk and most diners appear to be holiday makers, although several Shoreline residents have told me they dine here regularly. Throughout the week, Gusto has a number of specials, including an all-you-can-eat Mediterranean barbecue on Tuesdays for Dh110 per person and paella for two people on Fridays for Dh100.

But for now, it's dessert time. I opted for the Tarta de nuez, an oven baked walnut tart served with vanilla ice cream while my wife sampled a selection of homemade sorbets, all superb.

Some coffee, while watching the moon's reflection in the waters of the Gulf, sealed the deal. Time to pack those bags; we're moving to Palm Jumeirah.