If, for you, the mention of Italian fare conjures up an image of a massive plate of spag bol, the eating of which is followed by massive amounts of lolling about on the sofa behaving like a snake that's swallowed an antelope on a nature programme (and who must now spend three days digesting it), well, Rococo is here to refute the notion that Italian can't be light.
Past the shimmering crystal curtains and into the quietly buzzing dining room, should you be the type who likes to sample a little of everything - ‘kid in a candy shop' style - then there are three degustation menu options with five courses at Dh295, six for Dh350 and seven for Dh395 - definitely some of the most reasonably priced degustation menus we've seen.
When it comes to the antipasti, the word that struck us most was ‘rich', with many flavours packed into individual dishes. Exhibit A: Gorgonzola, mascarpone figs, San Daniele ham and rosemary honey, all of which combined to deliver a light-on-the-tongue-and-tum dish, with the figs adding a juicy sweetness. Elsewhere, the Pomodoro e mozzarella di bufala ‘Campana', finds crispy focaccia added to the classic dish, and the Angus beef tenderloin carpaccio with white truffle essence, quail egg and 24-month-aged Parmesan, probably the richest entrée on the menu, with the absence of a carb accompaniment meaning no appetite gets spoiled.
Onto the Primi piatti, where home-cooked words like ‘stuffed', ‘rolled', ‘aged' and ‘crumb' speak volumes about the traditional ethos at Rococo, simple palates will enjoy the Butternut squash tortelli with brown butter and sage, or the Paccheri with tomato-olive sauce, burrat cheese and bail pesto. Looking for even more flavour? Try the hand-rolled potato gnocchi with mussels, clams, thyme butter and bottarga.
The Secondi piatti offers up Milk-fed veal loin, Angus beef tenderloin and New Zealand lamb rack. And here again, the richness of the accompaniments adds flavour without the overstuffed-tummy feeling in the veal's chestnut ricotta purée side, and the mascarpone polenta that arrives with the lamb. Seafood-wise, the Dover sole, served with broccoli, parsley, crispy capers and lemon butter sauce is a standout.
Finally, dessert is where things get even more decadent - and it's all about the classics here. Choose between Dark chocolate fondant, Tirimasu and Vanilla pannacotta, or opt for a refreshing ending in the Pineapple carpaccio with anise and lemon sorbet.
Tasty trio: Mediterranean
Armani/Peck
This high-end Italian eatery perfectly marries a stylish restaurant with a sleek deli, so you can choose between ordering à la carte or from the array of counters laden with fresh breads, succulent meats and juicy olives. When perusing the menu, you’ll be tempted by the Veal with fontina cheese and delicious pasta dishes, but we recommend opting for the antipasti platter to get the best of the deli offerings in this extremely chic monochrome restaurant.
Location Armani Hotel Dubai
Timing Sat-Thu 11am-11pm; Fri 12pm-11pm
Tel 04 888 3444
Al Fresco
Al Fresco is the archetypal Italian restaurant, complete with the right sort of background music and an open kitchen in which you’ll see the chef performing the obligatory pizza dough fling. The pizzas are certainly must-orders on the menu, served up thin and
crispy. And if you’re more of a pasta person, the lasagne is as good as you’ll find in any Italian mama’s home.
Location Crowne Plaza Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road
Timing Fri-Wed 12pm-11pm; Thu 12pm-11.30pm
Tel 04 331 1111
Thyme
This charming bistro is fast becoming a popular spot for a laidback Friday brunch or to meet up with friends for dinner and drinks after work. You can’t go wrong if you pick one of the classic Southern European dishes, and the sea bass is a Scene favourite, whilst the honey-roasted pumpkin soup is a dish that will leave you feeling as warm and homely as the Mediterranean decor and ambience at Thyme.
Location Oasis Beach Tower, Dubai Marina
Timing Daily 7am-12am
Tel 04 315 4200
