The many faces of Neelam Kothari

Indian actress-turned-jewellery designer will showcase her latest collection in Dubai on October 30 and 31

Hindi film fans remember her as the bubbly, charming heroine who made her debut in the 1980s with the film Jawaani and who could match a good dancer like Govinda step for step.

Neelam Kothari also went on to carve a niche for herself as a vivacious host on television. But the actress has now given up the glitter of showbiz for another dazzling career. Her creative talent is now focussed on designing jewellery.

Five years ago, Neelam launched her jewellery line called Neelam Jewels and she has recently opened a fine jewellery showroom in Mumbai. She will hold an exhibition of her latest collection of jewellery in Dubai at Designer's Lounge, Al Mina Road, on October 30 and 31.

"My family has been in the business of manufacturing exclusive handcrafted jewellery for many years. We supply to leading jewellers such as Fred Leighton and Cellini in the US and our fine jewellery is sold through auction houses such as Sotheby's and Christie's.

"I have always been fascinated with precious stones, especially coloured ones, and knew that I would eventually join the family business and be a jewellery designer some day," said Neelam.

In an exclusive telephonic interview with Tabloid, Neelam also spoke about her latest venture and her plans for the future.

Excerpts:

Tabloid: What are the current trends in jewellery and what should we expect to see in your latest collection?
Neelam Kothari: The trend at the moment is delicate simple lines and long, sleek earrings. Designs inspired by the Moghul period are also popular this season. Trends keep changing but the more classic designs never go out of style.

My line consists of exclusive handcrafted jewellery in 18 carat gold and platinum set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies. The collection I will bring to Dubai comprises rings, pendants, bracelets, bangles, earrings, chokers and necklace and pendant sets with Burmese rubies, Columbian emeralds, diamonds and colourful semi-precious stones.

It includes some pieces with my signature style of using Burmese rubies in an invisible setting, where no metal is visible between the stones. My jewellery is inspired by period pieces but has a contemporary look. My emphasis is on exclusive designs and the best quality stones and workmanship.

Tabloid: Have you had formal training in jewellery designing?
NK: I have done a jewellery designing course in Mumbai. But most of what I know has been learnt from my father. I began working with him 10 years ago and got hands on training in assorting stones, diamond grading, selection and buying of stones as well as every step of manufacturing.

Tabloid: What are the inspirations behind your designs?
NK: I get inspired by a particular shape or motif and work around it. I love to use a lot of coloured stones, especially rubies and emeralds, because I feel they make a piece more interesting.

I want my jewellery to look delicate and avoid too much metal showing in the pieces, because it draws attention away from the stones. These days I enjoy working with floral patterns.

I like antique jewellery, Moghul motifs and classic brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels. I don't like anything too modern or fancy and try to create pieces that are timeless and never go out of style.

Tabloid: When did you start designing? Did you wear jewellery designed by you in any of your films?
NK: I began doing it on a commercial scale five years ago, but I have been designing for friends for about 10 years. I have never worn my own designs in my films - I don't think any of my producers could afford it.

Tabloid: How much time do you spend on designing and in the store?
NK: It is my full time job now. I decided to open my first store in Mumbai because my clientele has grown. I am in the store all day because I like to be there when my regular clients come in.

Tabloid: Which of your designs is your favourite piece?
NK: A pair of earrings with rubies and rose cut diamonds. The style is very Victorian and I am tempted to keep them for myself.

Tabloid: What films and TV projects are you working on currently?
NK: I am not doing films or television programmes anymore.

Tabloid: What are the advantages and disadvantages of being a well-known movie star in your career as a designer?
NK: The advantage is that it makes my jewellery a little more interesting and people are curious to see what I am doing. The drawback is that people assume that my jewellery is expensive. But my prices start at Rs 30,000 and I have something for everyone.

Tabloid: Why did you decide to have an exhibition in Dubai?
NK: My jewellery looks good with ethnic as well as western clothes and everybody who has seen it has told me that it would be appreciated by all the nationalities that live in Dubai.

I am excited about this trip because it is 15 years since I last visited the city. I look forward to seeing a lot of people from different nationalities at my exhibition.

Tabloid: What are your future plans?
NK: I want to open more stores in India and abroad. Maybe I will open one in Dubai.

Neelam's jewels
* What: Exhibition of jewellery designed by Neelam Kothari.
* Where: At Designer's Lounge, Al Mina Road, Dubai.
* When: On October 30 and 31. From 10.30am to 8.30pm.