I've never tried Indonesian food before. So when I asked a couple of my friends to tell me more about the cuisine I was surprised when they described it as challenging.

My curiosity ignited, I headed out to Mutiara restaurant eager for a fresh Asian dining experience that would be a welcomed detour from the reliable pad thai noodle or green curry.

Since Mutiara is located at the culinary haven of Karama, one cannot help but have certain expectations of the cuisine. For the newcomer, Indonesian food isn't much of a leap for the tastebuds if you like Thai food.

It can be spicy but it can also be subtle and fragrant. While Thai food is characterised by bright, high notes powered by peppers, fish sauce, lemon grass and other easily distinguished ingredients, Indonesian food strikes a lower bass note.

Pungent beans

Mutiara's helpful menu highlights each dish's spiciness with little chilli icons beside the dish name so customers will never be unpleasantly surprised and requiring an emergency jug of water.

For starters, we began with the safe option in terms of spice with Tempe Goring — a deep fried fermented soybean knitted together by a mat of white mycelia and coated with spring onions.

However, it turned to be a lacklustre opening act as the stink beans (as they're endearingly known in Indonesia) packed a funky and musty scent — nutty and a little salty — with a strange aftertaste.

The accompanying sauces saved the day. For those who need the extra dose of chillis, there are always the additional sambals to cover the pungent beans.

A more appetising alternative is the Soto Madura, a clear soup of chicken with bean sprouts and glass noodles, enriched with flavours of turmeric, lemongrass and kafir lime.
As someone who loves food served piping hot, it took a little while to acclimatise to a soup being served at room temperature. Nonetheless, the quality was not affected, rather enhanced.

Soulful

For the main course, I decided to be adventurous. I didn't know what to expect from the chargrilled oxtail but it turned out to be one of the best dishes of the evening.

I usually think of oxtail as a heavy dish, but the thin broth was light and refreshing, especially with a squeeze of lime. The oxtail itself was cooked until tender ensuring that the flesh was both juicy and chewy.

For me, this culinary experience summed up the quintessential Indonesian dish — deep, rich and soulful.

An Indonesian meal is not complete without a sampling of seafood and in Mutiara's case the must try item is the Ikan Bakar (charcoal grilled pomfret). The fish is marinated and basted with a special sauce till it permeates into the flesh. Succulent and fresh are words that come to mind when savouring every flavoursome mouthful.

For an extra 'oomph,' add a measured spoonful of the Sambal Belacan or Sambal Belado. I also gorged the side dish of Sambal Terung — spicy eggplant sauteed in chilly and ground shrimp paste — and was soon too full to experiment with any of the sweeter offerings from the dessert menu.

Thoughtful

There is not much privacy in this restaurant so it's not the spot for an intimate dinner for two. But it's perfect for a quick bite after work and unlike many restaurants in Dubai the service is faultless.

The staff were commendably quick, efficient and thoughtful, always on hand to refill glasses and provide extra napkins.

While there aren't many Indonesian restaurants in Dubai to make sweeping comparisons, Mutiara exudes a warm and homely feel. The price is also reasonable — so much so that you could easily think you're dining out in a neighbourhood warung in Denpasar.

Checklist
Where: Mutiara Restaurant
How to get there: Al Shafar Building,opposite Spinneys, Karama Call 04-3977650.
Must Have: Chargrilled oxtail
Verdict: 3 stars

By Suparna Dutt D'Cunha

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