It is easy to visit Edinburgh and feel you have not got under its skin. During the festival you are more likely to meet Oxbridge students doing satirical street theatre than locals and, even outside of that jamboree, this visitor-oriented city maintains an unreal air. Edinburgh can feel like an improbably handsome stage set where, from Michelin-star restaurants to smart museums, high-quality leisure activities abound at the expense of less commercial, distinctive creativity. Where is the real Edinburgh? Does it even exist? Well, yes, if you know where to look.
There are locals who complain that, even in the arts, Edinburgh is too complacently bourgeois. Music, they sigh, suffers particularly. But tell that to hip-hop trio Young Fathers, who have railed against what they described to the Guardian as: “A city for tourists and rich, middle-class people.”
Similarly, a core of small, idiosyncratic Edinburgh labels such as Song, By Toad, Gerry Loves Records and Firecracker are putting out innovative, off-beam music here, despite a dearth of music venues (OTT local noise restrictions are often blamed for that). A network of clubs persist, however, supporting a tight-knit local scene that — this is Scotland, remember — knows how to party, as veterans of the seasonal Nightvision events will tell you.
Finding space to pursue quieter creativity is less problematic, in a city where every publican recognises the value of offering not just pints, but poetry or theatre nights, too. This is a city of ingrained creativity, particularly in the visual arts, and grassroots activity blossoms even in the shadows of the big, publicly funded institutions.
And when it comes to food and drink, all those tourists are a boon — a weight of numbers that means cutting-edge restaurants and bars generally find an audience. In grub and booze, there is always something happening in Edinburgh.
Music
Sneaky Pete’s: This loud, boisterous box holds just 100 people but it is essential to Edinburgh’s underground. It hosts live gigs and club nights and encompasses everything from psych-folk to brute techno. “It’s one of the few places that still has that anarchic, 1990s basement feel to it,” says Lindsay Todd, whose left-field house label, Firecracker, runs a bi-monthly night here. “It’s intimate, it has a friendly, knowledgeable crowd, and the guy that runs it, Nick Stewart, is really passionate.”
73 Cowgate, 0131-225 1757, sneakypetes.co.uk
The Dissection Room: A one-time veterinary college, Summerhall is now a creative fulcrum housing artists’ studios, galleries, a brewery and a gin distillery. The Dissection Room, a gig space mainly used by touring bands, is booked by Summerhall’s team, under the ironic banner Nothing Ever Happens Here.
1 Summerhall, 0131-560 1581, summerhall.co.uk
The Jazz Bar: Despite its name and its candlelit tables, this basement jazz bar is full of musical surprises. “It’s one of my faves,” says DJ Eclair Fifi, an Edinburgh native and key member of the LuckyMe collective, a record label and design studio. “I love popping in for a malt whisky and not knowing what you’re going to get. I’ve seen free jazz there, brass bands, also Moodymann playing live.”
1a Chambers Street, 0131-220 4298, thejazzbar.co.uk
The Mash House: At this refuge for discerning clubbers and gig-goers, look out for No Strings Attached parties, with guests such as Optimo and Andrew Weatherall, and events by the roving Braw Gigs, who push experimental music of all stripes. “You can maybe fit 300 in there and, these days, the smaller the venue, the better the vibe,” says Todd.
37 Guthrie Street, 0131-220 2514, themashhouse.co.uk
The Banshee Labyrinth: Relax. Any blood-curdling screams you hear in “Scotland’s most haunted nightclub” will probably come from a thrash metal band or some experimental noise act’s malfunctioning hardware. These vaults contain seven rooms wherein regular punk and metal nights are accompanied by (free) cult cinema screenings and occasional off-the-wall electronic gigs. Says Todd: “It’s a real punky dive, and when it goes off, it’s a great little vibe.”
29-35 Niddry Street, 0131-558 8209, thebansheelabyrinth.com
Food
Timberyard: In this hip, post-industrial space, the Radford family have created what is arguably Edinburgh’s most exciting restaurant, influenced by Nordic cooking and the abundant Scottish larder. Son Ben is a whirl of smoking, foraging and pickling activity, creating dishes such as beef tartare with cured quail’s egg yolk, toasted buckwheat, daikon and shallot. Elsewhere, other Radfords ensure that everything from the natural wines to the homemade cocktail syrups are on-point. “It’s quite out there for Edinburgh,” says Hilary Sturzaker of restaurant consultancy My Monkfish: “Whatever is on-trend they nail it, without trying too hard.” Four courses, £55.
10 Lady Lawson Street, 0131-221 1222, timberyard.co
Indaba: It sounds an improbable mix — Spanish, South African and Scottish tapas — but Elaine Mason, co-owner of soup bar Union of Genius, insists Indaba is a keeper. “Everybody I recommend it to looks at me like, what? But it’s outstanding. Charlton, who’s South African, runs it with his Spanish wife, Bego-a, and they dial up the flavours the way I like. Give me those slow-cooked honey and chilli ribs, and everything else can wait.” Tapas £4.75-£8.25.
3 Lochrin Terrace, 0131-221 1554, edindaba.co.uk
L’Escargot Bleu: Edinburgh hardly lacks French restaurants, but for Edward Murray, chef at the renowned Gardener’s Cottage restaurant, this is the doozy. “Fred Berkmiller is an avid Slow Food supporter; he sources impeccably and serves very carefully prepared, classic bistro food,” says Ed, who loves the Isle of Barra snail gratin with Pernot butter. Mains from £15.90.
56 Broughton Street, 0131-557 1600, lescargotbleu.co.uk
Ting Thai Caravan: If you’re looking for street food in Edinburgh, check the Pitt market in Leith or Stockbridge Market and its various spin-offs (tips: Harajuku Kitchen, Alplings, Babu Bombay, Orinoco). Alternatively, head to this busy, fast-paced Thai street food kitchen — no web presence, cash only, communal seating — where the eponymous chef Ting knocks out first-rate jungle curries, som tam or nam tok nua beef salads. Co-owner Malcolm Innes recently opened the rated Wildmanwood Pizza (27 Marshall Street).
8-9 Teviot Place, 0131-225 9801
Smith & Gertrude: One of those newfangled, casual wine bars, S&G has a long menu of interesting wines, many available by the glass, a stash of vinyl you can play on the bar’s turntable, and impeccable British and French cheeses and charcuterie. “What more could you want?” asks Murray. Plates £3.50-£5.50.
26 Hamilton Place, 0131-629 6280, smithandgertrude.com
Culture
Rhubaba: This artist-run studio and exhibition/performance space is one of Edinburgh’s most interesting hidden gems, according to Julie-Ann Delaney, curator at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. Experimental gigs and interactive exhibitions rub shoulders with shows encompassing every creative medium, from film to ceramics. The gallery is also home to an amateur choir who occasionally dip into the work of Iggy Pop.
25 Arthur Street, rhubaba.org
The Forest: A non-profit, volunteer-run, vegetarian arts café, Forest has bounced around Edinburgh for 16 years, defying the odds and acting as a quirky gallery/installation space hosting anything from Tibetan song sessions to political film nights. The Forest has also spawned a separate artist studio complex, Forest Centre+, with a gallery in Leith for emerging art, Interview Room 11.
141 Lauriston Place, 0131-229 4922, blog.theforest.org.uk
The Number Shop: The exhibition space at the artist-run Number Shop shows unusually adventurous contemporary art from 12 in-house artists plus various local and international guests. Expect weird and witty, brain-flipping works in anything from video and illustration to avant-garde sculpture and installation.
188-190 Pleasance, thenumbershop.org
Village Pub Theatre: Held in Leith pub the Village, this monthly pop-up theatre is where some of Scotland’s hottest new playwrights try out material. “It shows 10-minute plays with homebaking and beer,” says Paterson. “You can leave after one or stay for the whole series.”
16 South Forth Street, facebook.com/PubTheatre
Saorsa Art Gallery: Paterson spends hours in this commercial gallery, browsing and talking to its owner, Tommy Fitchet. “He’s a brilliant artist who does abstract landscape paintings on glass, and he stocks really unusual artists in ceramics and sculpture, whose work is totally unlike his own. It’s a very eclectic mix.”
8 Deanhaugh Street, 0131-343 1126, saorsa-art.com
Drink
Salt Horse: This new, 12-tap craft beer bar and bottle shop has “a stupidly good range of local stuff and incredible imports”, according to Patrick Jones of Leith’s Pilot Brewery. “It’s £2 corkage if you want to take something through to the bar from the shop.” Schooners from £3.
57-61 Blackfriars Street, 0131-558 8304, salthorse.beer
Bramble: This pioneering cocktail spot is now bar royalty, regularly namechecked among the world’s best bars. Try the Bramble (gin, lemon juice, sugar syrup, creme de mures) and go with the flow, advises Chris Molyneaux, creator of local gin Daffy’s: “Take a seat at the bar, trust the staff’s recommendations and you’ll experience flavour combinations unlike anywhere else.” Cocktails from £7.
16a Queen Street, 0131-226 6343, bramblebar.co.uk
Brass Monkey: Head through the beautiful Victorian galley bar at this student favourite and you will find a large back room where, daily at 3pm, they screen films free. “It’s like an adult soft-play area,” says Edinburgh papercut artist Boo Paterson. “It’s all mattresses. You take your shoes off and everyone lies together in a hippy way. There is an Edinburgh that’s quite reserved, but this isn’t at all.” Pint from £3.30.
14 Drummond Street, 0131-556 1961
Devil’s Advocate: What Molyneaux describes as Edinburgh’s cocktail renaissance owes much to Stuart McCluskey, owner of bar-bistro the Bon Vivant and this converted Victorian pump house. As well as its creative cocktails, Devil’s Advocate also celebrates whiskies — not just Scottish single malts, but creations from such far-flung corners as Denmark, South Africa and, of course, Japan. Cocktails from £7.
9 Advocates Close, 0131-225 4465, devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk
Sandy Bell’s: A place of pilgrimage for traditional musicians, Bell’s has hosted nightly folk sessions since 1942. “I wouldn’t necessarily buy a ticket for a folk gig,” says Boo Paterson, “but the atmosphere here is incredible. You sometimes get uptight tourists in — in kagoules, who feel they aren’t part of the scene — but they soon start clapping and smiling. It’s a great example of how music can transcend language barriers.” Pint from £3.35.
25 Forrest Road, 0131-225 2751, sandybellsedinburgh.co.uk
— Guardian News & Media Ltd
