The UAE national flag flutters high above the Arabian Gulf as hundreds of pedestrians mill around an assortment of shops and eateries below.
The calm, humid air is punctuated by a cacophony of car horns and roaring engines. Crooked, elderly gentlemen aided by wooden walking sticks jostle for position on the side walk with suited business types, tourists and even the occasional motorcycle.
The scene is Satwa's Al Diyafa Street, one of Dubai's most colourful and energetic thoroughfares.
By day it acts as an arterial route for motorists keen to avoid the Salik gates and is generally populated by workers heading out for a spot of lunch, a haircut or simply a quick browse of the street's bookshops and tailors. By night, it is transformed into a neon-lit hub for the city's night owls with Lebanese restaurants and fast-food outlets catering to the post-club crowd.
Al Diyafa Street is also considered one of Dubai's most fashionable districts. It runs from the Trade Centre roundabout all the way down to Jumeirah Beach Road. But all the main action takes place in a small segment between the Rydges Plaza Hotel at Satwa roundabout and the Al Ghazal shopping mall opposite Al Mina Road.
Sweet nothings
Some of the city's best independent outlets can be found here including Firas sweets — where you can get fresh baklava (a rich pastry sweetened with syrup or honey) and kunafa (shredded pastry filled with melted cheese and covered in sugar) — and the Dar Al Hikmar bookshop, which stocks a large number of texts in both English and Arabic. The vibrant heartbeat of the street is the three Lebanese restaurants that all sit within 100 yards of each other, namely Beirut, Al Mallah and Sidra. At night, the outdoor tables are packed with diners.
Abu Faisal, manager of Al Mallah, must be one of the most charismatic personalities in the city, let alone in Al Diyafa. "Diyafa Street is number one in Dubai. Here you get the best shawarma, the best falafel and the freshest fruit juices," he roars while planting a firm arm around my shoulder.
Abu Faisal, who has been working in Satwa for 20 years, says: "Al Diyafa is the best street in Dubai. We are packed every single night of the week and we have all [kinds of] customers here; look they are English, Arabic, Indian, American and Lebanese."
Those unwilling to gorge on Lebanese fare don't have to travel far to find other options. The Noodle Bowl, Ruan Thai and Bamboo are located in close proximity along with the ubiquitous choices of KFC, Pizza Hut and Baskin Robbins. But Al Diyafa is not all about culinary delights. It is also home to a thriving sports scene. Scores of youngsters take advantage of the basketball court and football pitch behind Rydges Plaza every night of the week.
On the night that I visited the place, there was a full on blood and thunder football match taking place on the sandy surface under the glow of the Pars Iranian restaurant. The referee, barefooted and wearing a coffee-coloured kandoura, broke into a sprint every now and again to shout ‘corner' or ‘free kick'.
Alwan Abdullah, a 17-year-old Emirati, says: "We play here every night. It's a great place to come and relax or hang out with your friends. Everybody is welcome to come and play. We have fun but the games can get quite competitive."
On my way back down Al Diyafa towards Beach Road, with Ferraris and Lamborghinis speeding by, I encounter two long-time stalwarts of the Diyafa community. Abdul Aziz, manager of the Dar Al Foqaha'a bookshop, has been living in the area for a decade.
He said: "There is a good energy about Al Diyafa Street; it is full of people from all walks of life. However, it is also a nice calm area and the surroundings are beautiful." The 55 year old, originally from India, added: "There is no doubt tourism will expand and that is, of course, good for local businesses."
Ali Mohammad Shafique, Manager of Diva Gents Salon, said: "Al Diyafa is a street where everything is available. It is very clean and you can get any food you desire; my family and I love living here." Shafique, from Pakistan, owns three barbers and employs around 30 people. He has been living in the area for nine years. "We are busy every night of the week. There is an economic crisis in the world but people still need to get their hair cut, he said.
Hotels
Diyafa is also home to two large hotels. Rydges Plaza boasts a number of excellent restaurants, particularly Coconut Grove, which serves authentic fare from across the subcontinent and Aussie Legends for those seeking an evening of no frills entertainment.
The Jumeirah Rotana features the lively Boston Bar, popular with expats, and the German Brauhaus restaurant.
Next door to the Jumeirah Rotana, inside the Al Ghazal Mall, lies Mr Benn's Costume Closet; a relatively new addition to the Dubai shopping scene. Jayne Eastland, the owner, says: "I like our location on Al Diyafa; this mall is ideal for us. Diyafa has a real community feel and there are so many different nationalities living here."
Eastland, from Wales, has been living in Dubai for 18 years but only opened Mr Benn's just over two years ago and it is doing well. South African Catherine Korb, store manager, amid a backdrop of Harry Potter masks, superman costumes and rock idol wigs, says: "Fancy dress is great when you're throwing a party because it's an immediate ice-breaker when you're speaking to people you don't know."
Al Diyafa Street houses a thriving, unpretentious community bursting with life.
But don't just take my word for it. Grab a cheese manakish at an outdoor restaurant in the early hours of the morning and see for yourself.
