Perhaps part of the reason Alexander Wang was grinning as he made his post-show victory lap on Saturday was the phrase emblazoned on the pockets of his black shirt: “HOLY SMOKE.”
The words had, at the least, a double meaning: Wang’s runway show had just taken place under the stained-glass windows and mosaics of the imposing St Bartholomew’s, an Episcopal church on Manhattan’s tony Park Avenue.
That was the “holy” part. As for the “smoke,” some of Wang’s typically racy outfits bore what appeared to be a marijuana leaf motif. If that was an odd thing to see in the pews of a church, even more so were the totally sheer tops worn by a few of the models.
Wang is well known for his edgy urban streetwear, mainly in black, with lots of studs and metallic details. His collection on Saturday held true to his style, which he described in his production notes as “deliberately opposing standard definitions of beauty and taste.”
With celebrity fans in the front row like Empire star Taraji P. Henson, Kylie Jenner and rapper boyfriend Tyga, and Beyonce’s sister Solange Knowles, Wang displayed mini-skirts in tweed, big fluffy sweaters, and heavy combat boots to add a masculine touch.
There were angora beanies, roomy zippered jackets and hooded sweatshirts, perfect for the bitterly cold day outside. Besides the leaf motif, Wang emblazoned some of his garments — for both men and women — with a print showing an exotic dancer, perhaps a throwback to the actual pole dancers at his fashion after-party last season.
Wang also incorporated a few choice words into his collection: Women’s sheer tights bore the word “girls” on the legs, a black sleeveless mini-dress bore the word “strict,” and the words “tender” and “faded” also popped up.
Henson, a Wang devotee, had nevertheless never been to one of his shows until Saturday, she said.
“I just happened to be in town doing a show,” she said. “I love him to death. He’s always there for me. His clothes look amazing on me so I’m finally here to see one of his shows.”
Wang, 32, left the Paris design house Balenciaga last summer after less than three years, during which he balanced that job with running his namesake label in New York.
