FFWD Season 8 Day 1 review: A mixed bag of aesthetics

The first day of spring-summer showcases at Fashion Forward Dubai (FFWD) was a mixed bag of aesthetics. From well-known designer Ezra Santos’ celebration of his country’s craft with beautiful, dreamy gowns; to the sports luxe-loving duo Ahmad Al Sayed and Saleh Al Banna of House of Nomad’s fun collaboration with Reebok Classic, fashion lovers were given a taste of what’s to come from some of the region’s top talents at the bi-annual event at the Dubai Design District (d3) on Friday night.

It was a return to roots for the UAE-based Santos, who has dressed some of the world’s biggest celebrities, with his collection called A Labour of Love. A nod to Filipino craft, particularly the weaving industry, Santos used the banig (mats, made of palm leaves) as a base and let his creativity loose. The result was a glorious mix of form and texture, as they were translated into Santos’ signature larger-than-life gowns.

He said his collection was dedicated to the artisans who have worked with him for the last 12 years.

Ezra Santos at Fashion Forward Dubai on Friday.

“I wanted to celebrate my home, my culture,” he said backstage. “And I wanted to show just how much we have to offer to the world.”

House of Nomad’s Al Sayed and Al Banna said they were also celebrating their beginnings.

“We wanted to go back to our roots, to what put us in the market in the first place,” Al Banna said after the presentation. “It’s also to thank everyone who has supported us from the beginning.”

The duo, who launched their label three years ago, has risen quickly among the fashion ranks in the UAE. Their latest collection was sponsored by Reebok Classic.

The association gave them the creative drive, said Al Sayed. “It gave us the encouragement to push for more of our sports luxe aesthetic,” he added.

Through 34 looks — 10 for men and 24 for women — the pair experimented with fabrics and silhouettes, with bright bubble gum colours adding an element of fun to the house’s signature cropped tops and bomber jackets.

Designer Kristina Fidelskaya explored the duality of love in her elegant and feminine collection. Strength, in the form of biker and bomber jackets, mixed with sensuality, through flowy chiffon and lace. The two combined to create contrasting yet pleasing silhouettes, marked by impeccable tailoring.

Fidelskaya, who started her label in Dubai in 2014.

Other showcases on day one included Ava Hashemi for her label Ava, Saudi designer Arwa Al Banawi, Kage by Basma Abu Ghazaleh and Saudi label Sotra by Nouf Hakeem and Mariam Bint Mahfooz.