Indian designers Ruchika Sachdeva and Ujjawal Dubey have been announced as the womenswear and menswear winners respectively of the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize regional finals, covering the Middle East, India and Pakistan, at an event at the Five Palm Jumeirah in Dubai on Monday night.
Sachdeva won for her label Bodice while Dubey’s is called Antar-Agni.
“The International Woolmark Prize is always a great experience; the judging gets tougher every year as the quality of work from designers nominated keeps getting better,” said Manish Malhotra, one of the judges. “Young designers are now expressing themselves through their work in a way like never before. While womenswear winner Bodice scored high on adaptability, commercial viability and creativity of the look, menswear winner Antar-Agni created something true to his belief. We are keen to see how these designs will be received in the global market.”
Malhotra was joined on the panel by Alison Tay, the editor of Grazia Middle East; Che Kurrien, editor of GQ India; Nonita Kalra, editor of Harper’s Bazaar India; Daniel Higgins, fashion editor of Esquire Middle East; Kirsten Lock, fashion director at ordre.com; Laura Larbalestier, the buying director of Boutique 1; and John Roberts, the general manager Eastern Hemisphere, The Woolmark Company.
The winners each received a Dh194,000 financial contribution towards their next collection and will receive mentoring support from a global panel of experts along with being granted a Woolmark license. They have also received an invitation to participate in the international finals, for a shot at the Dh556,000 and global retail opportunities.
Inspired by nomadic tribesmen from across India, Antar-Agni’s winning menswear look was created using multiple layers of woven twill, selected for its drape and comfort.
“We wanted to play with the idea of creating comfort clothing for the new-age man who juggles several roles. Think banker-by-day, traveller-by-the-weekend,” explained Dubey of his collection. “This process has really taught me so much over the past four months. I have developed a newfound appreciation for this incredible fibre. The mentoring and support have been the most valuable part of my experience so far.”
Bodice’s winning look took inspiration from the 18th Century costumes of Indian Nautch girls, contrasted by modern menswear tailoring. The wool fibre and the fabric were developed and finished in five different parts of India, highlighting indigenous and age-old crafts in a contemporary rendition.
“I am truly honoured to win this award because it gives Bodice the opportunity for real global expansion and provides the funding to allow me to create an incredible collection,” said Sachdeva.
For the next six to seven months, the winning designers will be required to develop a capsule collection in Merino wool, to be showcased at an event that will highlight the six menswear finalists and six womenswear finalists selected from across the globe.
