They met in Mumbai in 1986. He from a wealthy Gujarati Muslim family, an art-school reject whose passion for doodles and sketches had a flair for the glamorous life. And he, a Punjabi from Delhi who was being groomed for a life in the family leather business.
But when Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s paths first crossed through their work experiences with a Bollywood costume designer called Xerxes Bhatena, sparks literally flew. It was only a matter of time before the pair decided to go at it together, forming what would become the Abu Jani- Sandeep Khosla label, known for its luxurious take on Indian traditional garments that has, for more than 30 years, dressed some of the most glamorous people in the world, from Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to Beyonce.
We were both hungry, Khosla, the Punjabi, recalls. “I fashion in my head, Abu’s hand draws the sketch,” he tells Gulf News tabloid!, explaining how they’ve kept the momentum all these years.
The Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla brand now encompasses everything from couture to interiors and recently, Asal, a diffusion brand, which will bring them as headliners of Dubai’s Design One shopping exhibition on October 1 at the Jumeirah Emirates Tower.
Ahead of their rare UAE return, the duo discuss their fashion journey, a new book, how Indian fashion can truly go global and why there’s no stepping them.
Abu and Sandeep, welcome back to Dubai. A lot of designers come to the UAE often for exhibitions but you guys don’t. Is there a reason?
Abu Jani: We rarely do exhibitions, full stop. Our focus has been couture for thirty years, which requires a different kind of showcase. We decided to launch a new label this year. Asal by Abu Sandeep is our aesthetic sensibilities as couturiers, reimagined and reworked as diffusion. Asal caters to a new demographic and a new mood, one that is edgier, current yet classic and also decidedly glam. You shall see us in Dubai a lot more in the future. We are very excited to be here. And look forward to many more events, shows and even a permanent presence in the near future. We love a savvy, stylish audience. Dubai is just that.
From 1986 to now, what are the things, besides your friendship and talent, that has stayed constant?
Sandeep Khosla: The unswerving commitment to do more and to do it better than ever before, sans compromise. ‘Whatever it takes’ is the guiding principle.
When you were just starting off, did you ever doubt yourself? Did you have a backup plan?
Jani: We had no plan except to follow our compulsion to create, to express all that lay within, to serve our own sensibilities and aesthetics. It drove us. It still drives us. There is no other way when you are on a journey like that one. Full steam ahead. It isn’t a career it is a calling. We choose to answer that call. And no other.
How does the design process work with two of you? Tells us a little bit about how you work together.
Khosla: Process is an intangible thing. It cannot be described or defined. Its about myriad inspirations and the impressions they cast upon the artist’s soul and the resulting expression.
Our own process is chaotic, often conflicted and can best be described as Alchemy. We bounce off each other and what we create together is more than the sum of our individual parts. There is much to and fro, persuasion and counter persuasion. No set pattern to our process. The idea originates in one or the other and then we dance with it in unison. We are both nitpickers and still visualise, design and control every single garment that carries our name.
If you were to describe your journey so far in three words, what would it be and why?
Jani: Fevered, full-throlle, fantastique.
Because from the day we met and decided on instinct to combine our forces, it has been relentless. The pursuit of Beauty, the devotion to create the finest, the refusal to compromise our ridiculously high self-imposed bar. And to see those impossibly ambitious and exacting dreams become a reality and to continue to dream bigger ones, well it doesn’t get more fantastique than that. We are supremely blessed to be living the life of our most fabulous fantasies.
How different is the fashion industry now than when you started?
Khosla: Well, to begin with, it is an Industry now. With a well oiled machinery that includes design schools, fashion bodies, PR and media. When we began, there was no concept of design being a profession of any worth, let alone an organised industry. We still have miles to go. We need to professionalise, fund and promote ourselves better. From training in tailoring to infrastructure, to investment, it’s time to take design India to its optimal growth, across the globe.
Any young, talented designers we should watch out for?
Khosla: There is a wealth of talent. To name a few is to do disservice to the others. We need to unleash the creativity. Original, high quality, indigenous design is the mission.
You’ve worked with some of the biggest stars in Bollywood. Any favourites? Why?
Jani: We don’t play favourites. We love to dress anyone who possesses style, a penchant for personality, an aptitude for the finer things in life and a spirit to take those things and make them all their own. Its about the person always at the end of the day. Clothes do not maketh the man or woman. Fabulous men and women deserve the finest clothes. We are privileged that those kind of people love what we create.
Would you consider yourselves good businessmen? Who is better with money?
Khosla: Neither of us are any good with money, unless you mean investing every penny and spending it. Haha. We leave the business to our management team. We can never cut corners when it comes to our enthusiasm for quality, detail or beauty.
Tell me a little bit more about this upcoming book?
Jani: This year marks thirty years of our design partnership. India Fantastique Fashion is an ode to that journey. To our creative output and everything we stand for as artists and humans. We wanted to create a lasting testimony of these years and a book we felt was the best way to do that. To allow others to witness what we have lived, breathed and done. It was a mammoth task, that took us across continents and consumed our lives. To conceptualise, then shoot then edit three decades of work was a logistical and creative monster. But the results are more than worth the blood, sweat and tears. It is a book we are extremely proud of.
What are you bringing to the Design One show in Dubai?
Jani: The Asal Festival 2016 Collection is our ode to the Season of Celebration. It is a smorgasbord of silhouettes and moods designed to carry the wearer from casual to formal to cocktail to occasion and wedding wear. Its exuberant, rich with embroideries, sassy and sexy. Very current, this collection is also eternally elegant. We don’t believe in gimmicks or transient fashion. We believe in setting trends that transcend the vagaries of time and are forever.
What do you look most forward to when coming to Dubai, besides the work?
Khosla: The food and the people. We love meeting new people and soaking up the energy of that interaction.
What next for Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla?
Jani: New labels, new stores, new geographies. And breaking our own bar. And then breaking it again. We are as hungry as we were in 1986. We’re dreaming even bigger.
Don’t miss it
Design One is on at Jumeirah Emirates Tower from October 1 to 2, featuring 50 labels from India, Pakistan, Labanon and the UAE. Entry is free. For more, go to sahacharifoundation.org/designone-dubai. For more on Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, go to abusandeep.com.
