Croatian-born designer Damir Doma went to his roots to explore the patterns of East Europe in a slouchy, texture-rich menswear collection for autumn-winter 2013.
It was as if Doma had channelled a chic Balkan monk for many of the baggy, boxy silhouettes, and wide pleated pants, which played on contrasts of fabric: static boucle was followed by corduroy, alongside nylon and leather.
Patterns too provided oppositions with washed checks on square tops, against curved eastern patterns reminiscent of a lunar-cycle.
The programme notes cited the influence of the Alpine sportsmen of yesteryear, who would brave the peaks in layers of tweed, high baggy pants and V-necks without lapels.
The reference, alas, was not immediately obvious, but retro ski knits, snow-ready scarves and caps provided a cool sporty-relief to the monk style.
The collection could have benefited from some variation on the baggy silhouette, however.
But as ever, the Antwerp designer provided one of the cooler shows for the Paris fashion week calendar.