The Milan menswear fashion week ended on Tuesday with Giorgio Armani and the DSquared2 designing duo offering their spin on next year's spring and summer styles.
Armani kept it cool, presenting a relaxed wardrobe laden with light deconstructed jackets, darted trousers and airy geometric patterned pullovers.
The fun-loving Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten opted for multiple-choice attire ranging from longshoremen in distressed jeans and sailor caps to the romantic suitor in coral pink pants and a double-breasted white jacket, to creatures of the night sporting bright red tuxedo jackets with black silk lapels.
Although coming from two different directions, both brands reflected the mood created on the Milan runway where the top-billed brands — including Prada, Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Britain's Burberry and Versace — were previewing their 2012 warm weather collections.
Easy to understand
Whether elegant or sporty, the collections were easy to understand and easy to wear. Eccentricity does not fare well in an economic crisis.
On the elegant side, the clothes harkened back to the fashionable 1950s with double-breasted jackets, white shirts, often high-waisted pants with pleats, and classic loafers.
The sporty side instead looks ahead to the 2012 summer Olympics in London, with allusions to fencing, riding, and track and field. Rain jackets and lightweight bombers offer protection against the inevitable summer shower.
Golf, not back on the Olympic calendar until the 2016 games in Rio de Janeiro, also is a major influence for the upcoming season.
Overall the trend is more about dressing up at a beach resort than taking a swim. Except for a few bathing trunks, shorts were strictly Bermuda length, worn, alas, with black socks and city shoes.
Prints
Fabrics are ultra light and cut in loose billowy shapes. There is little room for hot and sexy in these cooled-down collections.
Prints from large and floral, to geometric or even comic figures permeated the runway. At times the same print was used for both jacket and trouser for a jumpsuit effect, or clashing prints could combine in a single outfit.
The summer colour palette is made up of pastels and relaxing shades of beige, grey and sky blue with flashes of coral, emerald green and canary yellow to perk things up. Black and white continue to be staple shades.
Bejewelled embroidery
Studs and bejewelled embroidery are the favourite eyecatchers appearing on everything from leather jackets to cowboy shirts and golf bags.
Bags, whether for sport, office or travel, are large and roomy. Shoes, especially the popular walking sandal, come in bright colours.
The item that binds all the looks together is the raffia hat which can be worn anywhere from the bleachers of the main court at Wimbledon to the posh cafes on the Isle of Capri.
