If designers showcasing their future looks at the Milan menswear week have their way, we will all be wearing our blazers with shorts come summer next year. Also, judging by the colours, and they were in abundance on the catwalk, it’s going to be one bright summer. Yet underneath those many multi-hued clothes, and some experimental take on the suits — sleeveless blazers anyone? — the message was loud and clear: Stay positive. Amidst the crumbling European economy, it was only apt.
The Directory picks 10 of its top looks that stood out during the four-day seasonal preview:
Bottega Veneta
German designer Tomas Maier outdid himself with his presentation at Milan. He brought out bold geometric prints, adding them to a very relaxed look that was paired with accessories featuring the label’s trademark intrecciato weave. But the highlight was his brave use of fabrics, especially organza, which he wrapped over wild prints like this look, adding a level of mysterious chic with it.
Dolce & Gabbana
The designer duo’s very Italian show was Sicily all the way as they honoured the Sicilian man in glamorous nostalgic fashion. Doing away with their standard beefy models, they cast regular men who paraded down the catwalk in everything from short shorts and stripy wife beaters, all immaculately tailored. Our stand-out look is this one with bright prints of Roman frescoes paired with short shorts.
DSquared2
The word “fabulous” should never be used in any masculine reference. But when it comes to the creations by twin designers Dean and Dan Caten, it’s hard not to. Not that their collection is feminine, no, but because their creative use of materials, despite a limited palette of denim, whites and blacks, one is tempted to. A bit of punk, a bit of rave, this collection was a party we’d like to have been at. And we’re already eyeing this strip of denim on a white shirt complete with embroidery. Just fabulous.
Emporio Armani
The shorts got shorter and tighter at signor Armani’s show. And paired with breezy blazers, like these our top looks, it seems he was driving the idea of taking elegant dressing right into casual domain. Or vice versa. The angular shirts, some of which peeped out of streamlined jackets were a highlight. So can we all wear shorts to the office now? We’ll have to wait until next summer.
Etro
If the erstwhile maharajahs of India were to update their wardrobe today, they would have worn all of Kean Etro’s collection. Both extravagant and individual, the modern met the past in the form of intricate prints and headphones slung on necks adorned by turbans. The fabrics were rich and gorgeous as touches of military mixed with shades of blues, blacks, purples and whites. This suit, with the top inspired by a traditional Gujarati “kediyu”, was easy to pick as our look.
Versace
Rome came alive in Donatella Versace’s prediction for summer next year. While gladiatorial models walked down the catwalk dressed in nothing but geometric printed robes (and briefs) and champion belts. Just as things were getting very manly, she sent out models in sleeveless double-breasted jackets as if to tease. Some were paired with shorts, others, like our favourite here, were pink and mixed beautifully with white.
Z Zegna
Amidst the faded colour of the show room, Z Zegna showcased its mostly two-toned collection. The focus was not on prints but on tailoring. Shirt sleeves ended at the elbow while buttons were replaced by zips. The past came alive as both long shorts and structured jackets ruled in what was a slick, fine tailored presentation.
Missoni
Despite a history and ethos tied tightly around knitwear, Missoni has, in past seasons, made it clear that its longevity comes from its ability to expand that very horizon. And in Milan, the prints came alive, albeit in a very muted palette, that saw models walking on a catwalk sprinkled with sand. Shorts were aplenty, but particularly were the ones that were cinched in the end.
Moschino
Many have done it, but not quite like Moschino. Showcased in a supermarket setting — perhaps a nod to our consumer lifestyle or a protest against it — the collection featured mostly, but not entirely, wild prints inspired by brands. This “Fresh”-inspired suit was a stand-out.
Gucci
Gucci went from casual to smart in a series of smooth moves that brought singular coloured three-piece suits and wildly printed trousers in burst of shades. There was refinement in each of the looks as structured trousers cut off at the ankle dominated. The mixture of texture and subtle colours in this nicely put together look is what we want for inspiration.
