Here at The Directory, we love a good success story. And Dubai-based Saudi designer Hatem Al Akeel, the man behind the fancy kandouras, has impressed us with his consistency and ability to surprise us every once in a while. Just back from a show in London, one of his first major overseas show, Al Akeel is now aiming for the big league with his label Toby, which he launched in Jeddah in 2007. Having just added a shirts line, a women’s line and a ready-to-wear collection, we caught up with him to discuss how the journey’s been so far and his place in the region’s booming fashion industry.
So you’ve just got back from London. What was it all about?
I was asked to participate in a fashion show at the Bvulgari hotel in London. It was a last-minute decision but thankfully I already completed my collection so the timing was perfect. I have always wanted to showcase my collection in Europe and it felt like the right time to do it. I have been getting a great deal of requests from the UK for my kandouras and my shirts. So I thought it would make perfect sense to pursue that market.
Tell us a little bit about the collection you showed in London.
The inspiration comes from one of my favourite movies called Indochine starting Katherine Deneuve. It’s a merge of Chinese and French sophistication from the 1930s infused with traditional style. I always like to bring back a bit of the old Hollywood classic polished style with a modern twist. It’s become one of my signature concepts. Cinema has always been a major source of inspiration for me.
But is there really a market for fancy kandouras there?
Yes very much so. There are many Middle Eastern-ers that reside in London or visit. London has become the melting pot of Europe. I also have many North Africans, South Africans and even Europeans requesting my designs. I think that my European influences are also quite prevalent in my designs and both eastern and western perspectives pick up on them as I spent majority of my earlier years in Europe.
You also launched your line of shirts recently. How has that been received?
They have been quite well received. I am also selling them on line as I am getting a great deal of interest from the States as well. Online shopping is very much alive and well in Europe and the States. They are much more involved with online shopping than the Middle East. Instagram and social media has also become quite instrumental.
And a women’s line?
Yes, I launched Hatem Al Akeel Femme in Riyadh and D’NA in Qatar. It’s an extension of Toby for women. It was launched last Ramadan and I started by introducing capsule collections and looking forward to launching my next one shortly .
What next for you then? A ready-to-wear line perhaps?
I have already started a ready-to-wear collection and will be coming up with a cohesive concept of menswear from shirts to pants and jackets and other surprises to follow shortly.
What’s your perspective of men’s fashion in the region since you launched Toby in 2007? How would you say it’s evolved?
It has evolved but I look forward to seeing more men’s multi-brand concept stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Boutique One that can champion more designers and give additional variety to the masculine market. We still have a long way to go but we are on our way.
You’re also now in Bahrain, Kuwait and the UAE. How has the journey been so far for you?
It’s been great. Toby has been able to change perceptions and, if I may add, brought variety to the GCC wardrobe. I am not here to change tradition, however, I think that we should have options. Variety is the spice of life.
There are a lot of people now doing designer kandourahs. What’s the strategy to stay different and be at the forefront?
It’s actually very simple. The strategy is to be true to your own design so that over the years you become recognised with your own signature style. It’s very important for any brand to identify what is their signature concept that would differentiate them from the other brands. Designer ethos should never be to follow trends but to set them with something new.
Toby by Hatem Al Akeel is sold at Saks Fith Avenue in Dubai (04-5012700) and at its own boutiques in Jeddah. Go to urtoby.com.
