Even the gorgeous silk blouses and skirts in saturated jewel tones weren't enough to divert the audience's attention from the pink elephant in the room on Monday at the Yves Saint Laurent spring-summer 2012 ready-to-wear show.
Everyone had of course read International Herald Tribune's story last week quoting unnamed sources as saying that YSL designer Stefano Pilati was on his way out, to be replaced by Raf Simons, currently of Jil Sander.
Pilati, a temperamental Italian known for his impeccable tailoring, has garnered mixed critical reviews over his years at YSL, and the rumour mill has insisted he was halfway out the door for several seasons running.
But Suzy Menkes' status as a living fashion legend and rock-solid reporter gave the story an almost bankable credibility — despite a suspiciously toothless denial from the brand.
And so it was that the audience took in the YSL display with pre-emptive nostalgia, as if they were already missing the man they'd had such a hard time liking in the first place.
Two storied Paris labels that have both struggled in recent years to recapture their erstwhile days of glory, Chloe and Emanuel Ungaro, both fielded the debut collections of their new designers.
Stella McCartney and Vanessa Bruno both delivered solid collections that looked like surefire commercial successes, while Italy's Giambattista Valli refined his retro-fabulous vision of haute bourgeois dressing.
Leonard served up appealing variations on the flower-covered jersey silk dresses they've been making — largely unchanged — for more than half a century.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
The fallout from Menkes' bombshell of a story hung over the show like a pall, obscuring the collection — which, despite a few faux pas (a pup tent-sized day coat, anyone?) — was a strong one that showcased the kinds of rigorous but structured clothes Pilati does best.
He whipped up stiff silks in the kinds of saturated jewel tones one usually associates with autumn into pretty blouses that puffed out through the back and shoulders and into little skirts and jackets with panels of scalloped ruffles. There were palazzo pants in fluid paisley printed silks and halter tops in rich sapphire, amethyst and turquoise. And let us not forget the black pantsuits that somehow managed to be even steamier than the ones from last season.
The audience applauded Pilati heartily, almost urgently, as he took his post-show victory lap, as if they were already feeling nostalgic for him.
CHLOE
The new creative director, Clare Waight Keller, peeled off the thick ponchos and woollen coats that shrouded the Paris label over seasons past to reveal light, girly looks that tap into the romantic, feminine charm that have historically been at the heart of the brand.
Drop-waisted apron dresses in ivory and tan crepe de chine were layered over linen blouses, while slouchy trousers and shorts were paired with boxy button-down shirts.
Everything was covered in pleats — tiny bicolour accordion pleats that shook seductively as the models walked and wider ones that gave the A-line skirts a schoolgirlish charm.
It was a strong debut from Waight Keller — a British designer formerly of knitwear label Pringle of Scotland — and a good sign for the label.
STELLA McCARTNEY
McCartney delivered a collection fit for sexy sleepwalkers that was full of relaxed chic pieces that looked like they'd been made from silk sleepwear.
Models wore abbreviated slip dresses, like little nighties, embellished with fancy arabesque embroidery and slouchy pyjama pants suits in printed silks.
The collection was all about the prints — little crosses, dots, fancy wheel shapes and paisleys in navy and maroon — which McCartney wielded with a deft hand, sending out looks that mixed and matched clashing prints or unified head-to-toe outfits, where even the handbags and sunglasses were served up in the same patterns.
