Instead of stacked rows of eager fashionistas all congregating around a long strip of catwalk, Loewe's first ladieswear runway show, under designer Stuart Vevers, was set amongst a succession of little cafe tables.
While waiting for the show to start, the venue filled with an authentic Parisian cafe atmosphere, journalists and friends chatted away almost oblivious of the real reason why they were all there in the first place.
The music got louder and the chattering stopped as models sashayed out through a narrow parting between the tables. A black nappa leather and grey cashmere bonded jacket was worn with a white cotton shirt, a pleated and laser perforated nappa leather skirt and black knee-high boots. A grey and navy pinstripe shirt was coupled with chunky antique silver chain necklace, black nappa leather trousers, black leather perforated sandals and an elaborate leather, wool and cashmere bonded jacket.
In true Vevers fashion, the accessories were all statement pieces: bold silver, resin and crystal bangles, ethnic ebony and metal earrings, oversized vintage silver, leather and acorn (the Loewe archive motif) necklaces.
There was exquisite nappa leather detailing on boots and court shoes, not to mention the intricate metal jewel-like stiletto-heel pumps. Notably, Vevers had been inspired by fish bone vertebrae and fossils.
The bags were iconic; there was the calf leather hand-stitched "Amazona" bag, steel crocodile "Ame" bag, tan ostrich hand-stitch "Flor" clutch and black calf hand-stitch "Heritage" satchel. The Spanish brand's trademark tote "Amazona" also came in studded suede, grey suede brogue and black calf.
To say that leather featured heavily in Loewe's autumn-winter 2009-10 collection would be a serious understatement. Even the guy sat at the table across from me was clad from head to toe in black leather (despite the risk of being mistaken for one of the Village People!). Well, at least he was definitely at the right show. Unlike that guy in the audience, Vevers' leather ensembles - whether it was nappa, ostrich, suede, calf, lizard or crocodile - looked totally classy and unmistakably timeless. The silhouettes were sensational, with the help of technological innovations the rich materials featured on the runway looked even more scintillating. Undoubtedly, Loewe is a leather house with the expertise to make leather relevant for contemporary women. Functional luxury is at the core of the Madrid-based fashion house.
The music oscillated between classical symphonies and futuristic trip-hop beats. Either one or the other, but never at the same time. Each music genre was given equal prominence and relevance on the catwalk. A grey astrakhan coat worn over dark grey suede shirt and navy laser cut felt skirt with embroidery was given its full, uninterrupted 30 seconds before the next silhouette was sent out. It made sense. A contemporary Sahara-red laser cut silk dress with red lizard sandals and matching tan ostrich leather and chain belt and cuff took to the podium before the audience was given another injection of classic couture, a black embroidered jacket, black ribbed knit vest worn with a dark brown printed suede skirt with simple black suede sandals.
