Is it more hype than health?

Lip service or sea change? Sceptics wonder whether Vogue magazine's vow to ban models under 16 or those of any age with visible signs of eating disorders is more hype than health.

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The 19 editors of Vogue around the world encouraged fashion designers to reconsider "unrealistically" small sample sizes that make ultra-thin models necessary in the first place.

Vogue didn't address the widespread industry practice of digitally altering photos that critics believe promotes an impossible standard of beauty.

While the new initiatives are certainly good news for models, Susan Linn of the Campaign for a Commercial-Free Childhood said Vogue didn't go far enough.

"If Vogue was really concerned about the well-being of girls in terms of their health, then they would have done what Spain and Italy did and use only girls who have what has been deemed a healthy Body Mass Index."

The health of models, especially their weight, has been in the spotlight over the past few years, especially after the death of two models from apparent complications from eating disorders in 2006 and 2007, but the focus, until now, has been on runway fashion shows.

Audrey Brashich, a former teen model and ex-editor of a teen magazine, called the Vogue announcement a "tiny baby step of progress", at best.

"The cynic in me feels like they are simply grandstanding while really just throwing a bone to an audience that is getting ever more savvy and tired of the tricks of the trade," she said.

Linn agreed, adding: "It's not going to help the millions of young girls who turn to these magazines to decide what they should aspire to look like."

Conde Nast publishes other magazines, including Glamour and Allure, but a spokeswoman said there are no current plans for these guidelines to be adopted across the company.

Glamour said in a statement on Friday the magazine's policy already was not to book models under 16 or those who appear to have an eating disorder.

The Hearst Corp, home to Elle, Harper's Bazaar and Marie Claire, said in a statement that it supports the CFDA guidelines, adding:

"Good health is something we strive to promote in our magazines, both in our fashion and beauty stories and in our features. We make every effort to educate our readers and present images that reflect strong, beautiful women."

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