After four days, 21 shows and talks and workshops by top international names, the four-day fashion showcase Fashion Forward (FFWD) came to a dramatic and fitting end on Friday at the Madinat Arena in Dubai.
Lebanese designer Zayan Gandour closed the night with her second ready-to-wear collection in what was a fresh and fun turn for the ‘Zayan girl’ she introduced on her debut last season. The freshness was also literal, with the catwalk lined with real grass and hydrangeas scattered all over.
Preceding her was Dubai’s fashion darling Furne One who, as always, brought lots of drama to the catwalk in his samurai-meets-Victorian woman collection. With scaffolding built right in the middle of the runway, most of those attending seemed to revel in the Filipino designer’s love for theatrics despite its late start.
Saudi Arabian designer Aziz Humaid created a lot of buzz on his Dubai debut earlier in the day, followed by another new Dubai label Taller Marmo fronted by two young designers Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea. Dubai-based Pakistani designer Amira Haroon made her FFWD return with a feminine collection while Omani designers Lubna and Nadia Zakwani brought their east-meets-west designs inspired by their country’s royalty with their label Endemage.
Endemage
Inspired by the colours of the pearl, designer sisters Lubna and Nadia Zakwani’s brought some Arabesque flair to the catwalk on Friday for their label Endemage. While the clothes were rather simplistic in structure, featuring gowns with puffy sleeves, separates and a dip hem dress, the highlight was the girls use of lush embroidery and fabrics that were cut in interesting patterns, all very heritage-inspired. And the patterns were everywhere: on trouser hems, on the lining of pant pockets and on dress sleeves, turning the collection into one that was rich in texture and detail.
“We wanted to bring a different side of our country that hasn’t been explored yet,” said Lubna after show. “And the pearl is very regal since a lot of royals wear them.”
Amato
Definitely one of the highlights of the four-day event, Filipino designer Furne One showed his showmanship and mastery over elements in his Victorian-era-meets-samurai-warrior collection, inspired by a recent trip to Japan.
With scaffolding built right in the middle of the massive catwalk – “I couldn’t find bamboos in Dubai,” he said later – One sent out his models in dramatic ensembles complete with geisha lips. They took on dramatic proportions – billowing dresses were exaggerated but looked light and flowing, perhaps due to the absence of lining. One also played with satin and silk, keeping with the theme, and matte crystals that weren’t too shiny. There were lots of beadwork, too, that matched the tones of the structured dresses, and so did the cutouts. Glittery heel-less heels only added to the drama while neck ruffles made for interesting accessories. The men, yes there were a few, were monk-like, complete with wooden sandals and flowing trousers ready for war or the hermitage, we couldn’t quite decide.
The colour palette was muted, like a box of macaroons. Not too sweet, just right.
Zayan
There was lots of love on the catwalk as Zayan Gandour introduced her unabashedly girly spring-summer collection on the last day of FFWD. And what a fitting and positive note to end on.
Perky and fresh, models traded their stone-faced looks for smiles as metallics met tulle in a variety of skater-style pleated dresses and peplum tops paired with mini shorts, metallic pants and skirts. If it was polka dots last season, this time it’s the lips motif that was predominant. And some glittery bandages.
“When something bad happens, you kiss it better. It’s my way of saying you should always keep an optimistic outlook in life and be happy,” Gandour explained later. “My girl has big dreams, she knowns she might get hurt along the way, but she picks herself up and tries to have fun and loves everything.”
The Zayan girl makes a mark wherever she goes, she added. Two seasons in, Gandour had definitely done that with her label.
