Life & Style | Beauty & Fashion
Fashion legends never die
Milan turned on the va-va-voom and honoured Ferragamo's 80 year contribution to style and showbusiness.
- By Leisha Petrys, tabloid! Editor, Special Report from Milan
- Published: 23:39 September 24, 2008
Milan turned on the va-va-voom and honoured Ferragamo's 80 year contribution to style and showbusiness.
Italy is made of icons. Think cars and Ferrari immediately springs to mind. Screen goddesses - one need to look no further than Sophia Loren. Among such legends belongs Salvatore Ferragamo.
Long before there was Manolo or Jimmy Choo, Ferragamo was cobbling designer gems for Hollywood stars including the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Ginger Rogers. On Tuesday night, Milan honoured the fashion house's rich legacy with the opening of the Evolving Legend exhibition at the Triennale Design Museum, to coincide with the brand's 80th anniversary.
Packing a capacity crowd, VIP guests were treated to a journey through time, from the designer's humble beginnings in a small village in Southern Italy to his ascension to showbusinesses which earned him the title of "Shoemaker to the stars" after the opening of the Hollywood Boot Shop.
While the soiree was lacking the celebrity pull that made Calvin Klein's recent 40th anniversary celebrations in New York a glittering affair (unless you count a perma-tanned Rachel Zoe who has been a fixture at nearly every invitation in Milan) - the audience were no less appreciative.
Career trophies
Drawing most adulation were the glass boxes displaying Ferragamo's various career trophies, including shoes handcrafted for style icons Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn. However, the exhibition (which runs until November 9) also looked to the label's recent past to show how the Ferragamo family have continued Salvatore's legacy following his death in 1960.
Several items worn by modern-day celebrities including items worn by Drew Barrymore in A Cinderella Story and a silk "poncho" made especially for Catherine Zeta-Jones. George Clooney also donated a pair of black patent brogues to the exhibition - and yes ladies, they're huge.
Hallmark
The Ferragamo collaboration with filmmakers is not just a hallmark of the past: the brand was recruited to work on the upcoming Baz Lurmann epic, Australia. A section of the exhibition was dedicated to the 1940s-inspired heels that were worn by Nicole Kidman during the filming, along with the stunningly tailored gowns with oriental collars.
Earlier in the day Ferragamo had looked firmly to the future, with its spring-summer collection that was big on architectural lines and not afraid to expose some skin. In fact, Tuesday was the day when Italian designers once again found their va-va-voom.
Unlike Armani or Burberry's soft romantic collections shown earlier in the week, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Prada all traded on sex appeal, although the latter, for the first time in many years, failed to seduce critics.
But as the evening drew to a close, it was Ferragamo's gold buckled platforms that had every fashion pundit talking - proof that true legends never die.
Salvatore Ferragamo: urban sultriness
Creative director Cristina Ortiz led a style departure for Salvatore Ferragamo, with a catwalk filled with an urban sultriness that has so far been lacking at Milan this season.
The collection was anything but demure, but rather lent itself to a new architectural form, with draped fabrics secured with a myriad of hardware, including buckles, chains and steel loops. Halter and asymmetric necklines made sure either shoulders or backs were exposed - adding to the overall seductiveness of the new line.
Dresses referenced 1970s glamour and the billowing gowns in hot pinks and oranges could have been taken straight from Bianca Jagger's closet. A sheer black kaftan with animal motif would have done her especially proud.
Oritz also provided a fresh interpretation of Marilyn Monroe's white pleated number in the Seven Year Itch but this time around it was given a modern update in peach.
Ferragamo's latest look is not one that most mere mortals will be able to pull off, but those who can will do so to dazzling effect.
Front row with Rachel Zoe
What are you wearing today?
I am wearing vintage Yves Saint Laurent. I have a lot of friends who are vintage dealers and whenever they get YSL they call me immediately. It's nice when it comes in my size, which is not always the case, so I just grab when it does without even trying it on.
What's been a highlight for you this week?
I loved [Gianfranco] Ferre. I liked a lot of things I saw yesterday. I loved Roberto Cavalli, I loved Missoni. Burberry was a great look and very different from what they normally do.
Your TV show has just debuted in the US, how is it going?
It's doing really well. People really enjoy it and that makes me happy.
How has life changed with cameras surrounding you 24/7?
It's changed a little but I just keep doing my job and pretend it's all not happening.
Do you have any plans to visit the Middle East?
I really intend to. I have clients there and I get tremendous support there.
What's your hot style tip for spring-summer 2009?
Wear everything Marc Jacobs.
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