Italy’s fashion titan Giorgio Armani showed an Emporio Armani menswear collection for fall/winter 2014-2015 that stood out for its use of soft fabrics so lustrous they almost seemed lit from within.
From first to last, the collection was a masterful compendium of modern good taste. The narrow silhouette previewed on Monday looked fresh at Armani, who made his name with the artfully deconstructed men’s jacket. Slim pants ended at the ankle over chunky oxfords. Jackets were tight, with three or four buttons, and had small, high collars.
The somewhat prim vibe of the jackets was counteracted by the quiet but deep luxury of fabrics. Fur was everywhere, either peeking out of hoods in flashes, or sleekly fashioned into soft overcoats and jackets. For the anti-fur crowd, there were sweaters with fake fur inserts, while wool was worked to look like astrakhan.
A moiri effect on a wool sweater added interest and kept things from getting dull. For evening, there was a velvet jacket in a deep reddish-purple reminiscent of the colour of neon lights reflected off a rain-slicked pavement at midnight. Armani shows his main Giorgio Armani line on Tuesday, the fourth and final day of Milan Fashion Week.
