Covered, but stylishly

Fashion's tastemakers and trendsetters started packing up on the eighth and final day of New York Fashion Week as shows began in London. But as the runway previews of the autumn looks continue in Europe, some early trends have emerged.

The most popular looks to grace the runways over the past eight days include leather, military, menswear-inspired tailoring and an overall sultriness that finds its allure in the mystery of the woman sheathed in high necklines and leather leggings instead of bare skin or overt sexiness.

"There's a real practicality to the season in New York. There's a lot of clothing that women will want to buy and wear," said Ariel Foxman, editor of InStyle magazine.

Brandon Holley, editor-in-chief of Lucky magazine, liked that a single outfit could have the toughness of a military look combined with a prim lace collar. Attention was also drawn to the face with turtlenecks, which plays into the covered-up sexiness.

CALVIN KLEIN

Calvin Klein designs have long been known for their razor-sharp lines, but the label's creative director Francisco Costa seems to have a knack for curves too. His autumn collection offered clothes for a woman who can charm with intelligence and strength, but without wearing anything too tight or revealing. Costa, in fact, created a looser hourglass shape for this muse that gives room to move and breathe, sculpting stiff wool fabrics into outfits with rounded jewel necklines and a little extra fabric at the hips. For most women, this is going to work better in coats than dresses, but on the models, it was nice to see the chic, fuller shape shifts.

"Mysterious, sexy and super urban" was how Costa described it just after the show. The colours were dark and stark, with the only bright moments coming from a few flashes of red and a salmon-coloured dress made of a glazed tweed and tulle.

RALPH LAUREN

Ralph Lauren and refinement go together like England and tweed. To the music of Downton Abbey, a show about a British manor in the First World War era, models began their parade in riding clothes — plaid jodhpurs, houndstooth coats, Fair Isle sweaters and button-down shirts with contrasting white club collars — and ended in slinky evening gowns with jewelled collars. There was variety in the silhouettes, with trousers ranging from wide-leg pleated pants to slim cuts, and there were tailored jackets long and short. The new version of the pantsuit was a below-the-hip lean blazer with skinny pants in the same plaid pattern but different scales.

BILL BLASS

The late Bill Blass made his fashion house famous with chic sportswear worn by a very glamorous crowd, and Jeffrey Monteiro, who designs the collection now, continued that tradition. On the runway, tuxedo pants had a drawstring waist and a black metallic gown had gold racing stripes down its long sleeves. Monteiro did an uptown version of the military trend, but his strong-shouldered coats had jewelled buttons.

There was also a bit of fur, including a fox collar paired with a simple sheer black jumpsuit and black evening pants, but compared to other catwalks that have been covered in mink and even raccoon, Monteiro had a light touch.

L'WREN SCOTT

L'Wren Scott's show had it all: Caviar, a chandeliered banquet hall, and A-list guests such as Mick Jagger. As for the clothes, a mix of velvety or satiny gowns, bolero jackets and tea-length dresses, often with a vintage feel that matched the elegant surroundings. There was a jacquard tweed cape lined in purple feathers, for example, paired with a purple velvet high-waisted pencil skirt. There was a long, deep-red velvet dress with a bow at the front. Bows also appeared at the back of jackets, along the hem. One of the fancier looks was a gold "caviar beads" gown with a black satin floor-length cape, and shiny gold shoes. And what Scott calls her "headmistress gown", in black satin.