Aquilano Rimondi Tweed over organza, an oversized masculine coat over with a ruffled bustle peeking out, these are the contrasts at the heart of the new collection by Aquilano Rimondi.
The new collection by designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi is rich with detail: fur trim, embroidery, contrast piping and steel rose appliques. Yet the overall effect is a wardrobe for real life, even as it encompasses the elegant-casual contrast, rather than the more rarified, highly structured and ornate collections of the past.
“Cocooning,” Aquilano said, is the collection’s overall effect, achieved through generous layering, with roomy sweaters or coloured fur coats over transparent pleated organza skirts. Rich velvety scarves wrap the neck and fill the open V in coats.
“We wanted to do a concept that was extremely urban,” Aquilano said. “Last season, we did rich sportswear, this season rather is reality, which can be rich and which can be decidedly better — also for us in Italy who are living an unsual moment.”
Ah, politics, it can’t be escaped, even amid the runway hubbub in the fashion capital — ever aware that Rome’s actions will affect its fortunes on a day that Italy got a bold new premier.
Aquilano said he hoped a new government “would give new life to exports, give new life to the Italian market, but above all the export market.”
Jil Sander
Since Jil Sander left her eponymous brand again last fall, the label has carried on with a team of anonymous designers.
Judging from next winter’s womenswear looks previewed on Saturday, the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week, the brand’s minimalist DNA remains strong.
The mood was soothing, the palate permeated by the palest monochromes of gray, blue, sage, pink and peach — with favourite black and emerald, a colour of the Milan season, projecting more strength.
The silhouette and lines of the dresses are deceptively simple, but then the eye catches folds in the fabric, and what emerges is the form of a cross or a starburst or a bias-cut wave. Skirts are high-waisted and gentle A-lines, worn with turtlenecks. Hemlines fall to the knee.
There were no eye-catching adornments, buttons or zippers, not even on overcoats, worn with collars raised, with closures that remained concealed from view. Shoes were chunky lace-ups or wedge boots in sturdier shades of yellow, green, brown and black.
The show notes said the team’s goal was to restate “the fundamental codes of the Jil Sander label, reinforcing the emblems of the house.” Mission accomplished.
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta’s looks for next winter burst and ripple with kinetic energy.
Creative director Tomas Maier infuses the looks with motion both through the tailoring, including micro folds and loose pleats, as well as geometric, graphic and digital patterns.
Movement is created in tiny pleats in dusty pastels and or black-and-tan patterns that ripple soothingly along pretty cocktail or party dresses, while bolder geometric patterns in black and white give bold definition to a straight skirt worn with a purple sweater. One dress style appears to burst outward from the hip, creating concentric folds that reach out and hug the figure. It comes in a quilted version, as well as tulle and crepe.
The flattering and forgiving silhouette features a fitted bodice, the falls into loose folds and large pleats, at times with contrasting colours tucked inside that reveal themselves in motion: black on beige or burnt red on winter white. Hemlines fall below the knee. There are no trousers.
There’s soft, buttery luxury in the elegant lambskin shearling coats, as pretty and wearable as a dress, taking definition from a skinny belt.
Colours are pale, light gray, beige pink and sand, offset by subdued red, acid green, emerald and purple.
The looks are finished in black suede booties that are cut into a spiky silhouette suggestive of flames and which mimic bold patterning in some of the apparel.
Bottega Veneta started off as a leather goods company before expanding into fashion, and its must-have bag for next season has a top handle, with patchworks of colour and combinations of materials.
