Serenity in the sky
For somewhere off the beaten track, head to the Sky Bubble at the Meydan. Usually associated with frenzied cheering and social games during the Dubai World Cup each March, the glass-walled restaurant at the grandstand has been transformed into a more serene venue for Ramadan, with arabesque elements toning down the hotel’s more opulent trimmings (such as crystal-walled elevators).
If you’re going to offer an iftar on the city’s outskirts, you’d better offer a very good iftar indeed. The Sky Bubble isn’t the place to go to for modern Arabian cuisine or anything on the molecular front, but the traditional staples are by and large excellent — and for once, don’t seem to be thrown together for people who’ve been starving all day and are therefore ready to eat anything without complaint.
The chicken molokhia, a traditional North African soup, is a good start. It’s only just slightly slimy in texture, and the chefs manage to cook out all the bitterness of the molokhia leaves and avoid overcooking the chicken. The hotel’s chefs clearly understand meat, which should be par for the course but often isn’t. Other highlights are the mixed grill, the lamb chops in mushroom sauce and the lamb lobya, a sort of meat and bean stew. All are perfectly done despite having sat on the hot buffet for a while.
I’m off desserts at the moment, but my dining companion, who piled her plate with “a bit of everything”, recommends the cheesecake (“smooth and not too sweet”) and the crème caramel (“just like home”).
Details: Sky Bubble is located on level 8 of Meydan Grandstand. Iftar costs Dh170 per person. Call 04 381 3111.
— Miranda Smith/Special to GN Focus
Continental tryst
Iftar is traditionally a protracted meal meant to be eaten at leisure, preferably with friends and family. The Ritz-Carlton Dubai attempts to cater to this belief at its Caravan restaurant, which serves up cuisines from both ends of Asia, with plenty of interaction on offer.
On the buffet the day we visit are Malaysian beef rendag, Mediterranean-style grilled kingfish, butter chicken and dal makhani, and the more familiar Emirati lamb ouzi and Arabic mezze.
While the international fare hews close to the traditional recipe (read top-quality examples of the dish), the regional items are innovative and beautifully done. Kibbeh, for example, is baked into tart shells that are filled with muhammara, moutabbel or hummus, turning this mezze stodge into a delicate starter. Elsewhere, a tagine station deconstructs the North African staple: a chef serves up couscous, smoked lamb, vegetables and caramelised onions from separate pots.
For dessert, you can choose from an assortment that includes nougat and panna cotta, or make your own Arabian-inspired date taffy lollipop.
Details: Dh220 per adult, including water and Ramadan beverages, juices cost extra. Call 04 318 6150 or email dine.dubai@ritzcarlton.com
— Miranda Smith/ Special to GN Focus
Party at the palace
Dining amid the lavish splendour of Emirates Palace during the holy month had never been on my bucket list, but it should have been. It’s easy to disassociate with reality as you stroll through the ‘seven-star’ hotel’s decadent golden halls towards the Ramadan pavilion for iftar.
Last year’s pavilion reportedly took 55 men more than a collective 20,000 hours to complete and it feels like the 2015 edition wouldn’t have taken much less. The first thing you see is a dates stand packing about ten types from across the region, some loaded in treasure chests. The sheer variety on offer at the buffet — I’m talking well over 100 dishes — leaves one a bit stuck about where to begin, while the food mainly consists of signatures from the hotel’s Emirati restaurant, Mezlai. – with The harees is particularly popular although there’s a large international representation as well.
Lentil soup was my starter of choice. Its consistency goes down well, leaving a refreshingly grainy aftertaste in the throat. If you prefer your starters cold, try the baby shrimp with brown rice and sweet potato, drizzled in lemon juice to tangy effect. I despised spinach as a child but the hotel’s lemon and garlic-infused offering worked well in tandem with the rich moutabal, while the crunchy falafel pairs perfectly with little spheres of labneh.
The hammour is a big fish, and I couldn’t help but stare into its unseeing eyes as the chef told me it’s been locally sourced and served with a butter-based sauce. The 45-minute roasted fish sat next to a huge lamb ouzi served on a bed of oriental rice, accompanied by with yoghurt and mint dressing. The meat was tender, so I found it odd that the lamb chops I tried afterwards were a lot less so.
Dessert included everything from cheesecake to sago and ice cream, but I elected to try the tiny chocolates, which had creamy fillings of praline, marzipan, wafer and honeycomb. And if shisha is your thing, you can kick back with one after iftar. You can kick back with a shisha after iftar, if that’s your thing.
Details: Iftar at the Emirates Palace costs Dh265 per head, inclusive of shisha. Call 02 690 7999.
— Riaz Naqvi/Staff Writer
An offbeat affair
For years most eateries in the emirates went all Middle Eastern come Ramadan, but nowadays more and more are sticking to their bread and butter. The truly masterful chefs do what they’re good at, and throw in a regional twist where it makes sense.
Cravin’ Cajun follows the latter recipe to great success. Ending your fast? The chicken gumbo fits the bill. The chef’s hand might be a tad heavy on the pepper, but the Louisiana favourite provides a hearty start to your meal. We were blown away by the sweet potato moutabal — sweet, smooth and smokey, it works even better than most eggplant standards. Equally interesting, the hummus comes in a yummy mushy pea and mint variation you can’t get enough of.
Other starter options include a perfectly spiced Cajun chicken salad and proper, old-school shrimp cocktail.
Then on to the dish that first captured my imagination — Southern fried chicken with waffles. While the American visitors at the tables around us tucked in heartily, I found the waffles a tad stodgy, and the sweet-savoury combination of syrup and fried chicken too alien for my palate. Which is a shame, because the chicken was heavenly.
Other mains include mac and cheese (average), chicken wings (amazing) and a Bayou lamb dish that stands in for ouzi in these parts (great gravy, but the meat was rather tough).
The desserts spread is massive, but try the custard slice and praline cake and the waffle cake — it does exactly what it says on the tin, and while it ain’t pretty, it sure is good.
Details: Iftar at Cravin’ Cajun in the Hotel Novotel Dubai, Al Barsha costs Dh120 per person. Call 04 304 9000.
— Eduan R. Maggo/Editor — Country Guides
Japanese delivery
Let’s be honest — we all have those nights where we couldn’t be bothered to cook. During Ramadan, this could become an issue, especially if you’d prefer to miss the iftar rush on Shaikh Zayed Road. A solution? Order in. Chez Sushi takes its name quite literally by serving a bento box for iftar not just at its four homes in Dubai, but at yours too.
I’ve never been a fan of miso soup, and this version didn’t convert me, although my partner enjoyed the salty broth with its drifting seaweed and tofu.
The standout in the box is the chicken katsu curry — grilled or fried (the latter is a gem), the sauce is a rich, thick and mild normcore perfection. It’s served with a zesty mixed green salad and makes for a filling dish, but not so you’re not able to appreciate dessert.
Japanese ice cream date mochi goes Arab with the glutinous rice cake hiding a very Arabian centre for a sweet yet not saccharine end.
Details: Iftar costs Dh60 or Dh45 if you’re vegetarian, and is available for eat in, takeaway or delivery between iftar and 1am. Call 800 78 744.
— Eduan R. Maggo/Editor — Country Guides
HEAD TO THE MAJLIS
Mamemo Majlis @ Four Seasons Resort Dubai
Jumeirah Beach
Best for: Impressing friends
Making its tent debut this Ramadan is one of Dubai’s newest hotels, the gorgeous Four Seasons Resort on Jumeirah Beach Road. This fancy, specially created majlis is one of the very first two-floor tents we have ever encountered. While the ground floor is for a more formal dining experience — this would be a brilliant venue for a corporate event, for example — a mini majlis on the top level is just what you need for a relaxed evening out with friends or family.
As with nearly every tent, the iftar and suhour offerings are fairly similar in terms of the dishes offered — the only difference is that iftar is buffet-style while suhour is à la carte. And shisha is only served during suhour.
Arriving at iftar, we were presented with water and Ramadan juices — and a glass of mint laban that actually doesn’t go that well together — while the friendly staff prepared our table with a variety of Arabian mezes such as labneh, fattoush, okra and more. Along with being a nice personal touch, the serving sizes meant that none of it would go to waste. That also meant you wouldn’t find a lot of salads at the buffet and could just jump into the mains. The mixed grill and grilled chicken were delicious, and we were pleasantly surprised to see country-specific dishes such as the Egyptian koshari, Indian curries and biryani.
As for dessert, there was a little station located in the middle of the majlis, so it seemed like an afterthought. The Umm Ali was very well made though.
Iftar: Dh260 per person. Suhour involves a minimum spend of Dh190.
Call: 04 270 7777
- By Rachel McArthur/Special to GN Focus
Layalina @ Kempinksi Hotel & Residences
Palm Jumeirah
Best for: Quiet socialising
Far from the Ramadan crowds is this little gem on the west crescent. It’s not being advertised, so if you’re looking for a quiet place to get together with the family, the star-shaped tent is quite possibly the venue.
The iftar spread, from sunset to 9pm, features all the Ramadan staples people want at this time of the year. Drinks include favourites such as jallab, kamardeen, Vimto and rose milk, and a variety of fresh juices, while everything from mezes to biryani, kebbeh bil laban, ouzi and the ubiquitous mixed grill is served as a buffet. Dessert, too, is by and large traditional fare: umm ali, ketayef with nuts and baklava, although the flour-less chocolate cake and the Paris-Brest are a nice change.
There are a few standouts, however: stuffed quail with freekeh or green wheat for the epicure, while pizza with beef chorizo caters to the young at heart. Worth trying also as well are its tart tart and moreish walnut-stuffed aubergine pickles.
Suhour is offered until 3am, with a whopping 31 varieties of shisha.
But Layalina’s highlight is the chance to have a star named after a loved one — it comes complete with a registration certificate confirming ownership. Prices are available on request.
Iftar: Dh185 per person
Call: 056 174 0415
- By Rachel McArthur/Special to GN Focus
Al Majlis @ Madinat Jumeirah
Jumeirah
Best for: A special occasion
For the VIP of all VIP tent experiences, look no further than Madinat Jumeirah. Year after year, Al Majlis continues to attract people thanks to its ultra-fancy setting and impeccable service.
With gold decor and grand chandeliers, this is where Dubai’s elite go to see and be seen. We spotted some Arab celebs — there were photographers snapping Dubai’s social butterflies — and even a few highbrow corporate gatherings. So it was quite surprising to find the iftar offering reasonably priced.
As for the food, Jumeirah always sets the standardfor F&B in the region. Consistency is one of its strengths, and the dishes are what you would expect. The Arabian menu is full of the classics, including all the mezes, rice, vegetable and meat casseroles and the all-important lamb ouzi. For dessert, stick with the Arabian theme and sample the divine Umm Ali.
Iftar lasts from sunset to 9pm, with suhour kicking off at 9.30pm. So if you’re planning a birthday or special gathering, book the later time slot as you’ll want to take your time to savour the experience. What’s more, one of the tent sponsors, Nissan, offers test drives to visitors all evening long. All you have to do is choose from five modelsto try later on that evening.
Iftar: Dh210 per person, while suhour is à la carte
Call: 04 366 6730
- By Rachel McArthur/Special to GN Focus
Al Majlis @ The Oberoi, Dubai
Business Bay
Best for: Impeccable service
Now this one may not be a stand-alone tent, but The Oberoi, Dubai has done such a great job with its Ramadan majlis that you forget you’re actually in a ballroom. Resembling the classical theme of Arabian Nights, Al Majlis offers iftar from sunset and suhour until 1.30am, with live oud and tabla entertainment, as well as a henna artist and spice souq.
The iftar buffet is a little unusual — there is a sushi selection, for instance — while the starters are a little low on salads. But the mains make up for it, with a number of unique dishes such as macaroni béchamel (an Egyptian version of lasagne), as well as an impressive spread of Indian food. For dessert, a whole range of treats awaits at the entrance, along with a chocolate fountain. But the highlight is its molecular gastronomy stations where food and science collide, which is fascinating to watch.
The Oberoi, Dubai supports the Slow Food philosophy, meaning that the hotel’s chefs put together dishes that support local farmers and contain organic produce. They use ingredients from indigenous farms, thus reducing carbon footprint.
It is the service where The Oberoi really excels, which results in a wonderful evening out.
Iftar: Dh220 per person
Call: 04 444 1407
- By Rachel McArthur/Special to GN Focus
IN THE REJUVENATION ZONE
Arabian retreat
I had read countless times that the best way to ease post-exercise muscle soreness is getting a massage. Massages are generally not my thing, but after a heavier-than-usual workout, I was tempted to try the Sense of Arabia massage offered by Spa Intercontinental at Intercontinental Dubai Festival City.
Walking in, I was instantly filled with a soothing sense of serenity. The spa is elegantly done in cream tones and lit up to induce relaxation. My therapist Widya led me to a treatment room where soft flute music played in the background.
Sense of Arabia is a combination of Balinese and the signature Espa massage techniques. The full body treatment focuses on the body part that needs most attention (in my case, my shoulders) and Widya explained what was going on every step of the way.
At the start I was asked to smell two different oils; the one you choose supposedly contains the natural ingredients that your body needs most. I picked a strong-scented one made from sandalwood, amber and musk.
Using thumb and palm pressure, she deftly massaged my legs, back and shoulders, focusing on the pressure points. Her hands were so efficient and motions so perfectly in sync that I felt the pent-up tension from my job and workout dissipate.
Since I was already out of my comfort zone, I decided to try a facial. Widya suggested a purifying facial, which is ideal for those with oily and problematic skin, or hormonal imbalances. There was the usual cleansing, scrubbing, toning and uncomfortable blackhead popping, followed by a gentle massage. Then she applied a mask, an eye cream, a moisturiser and protective serum.
The whole experience lasted almost two hours, including a very effective head massage at the end. I left with my skin soft and body refreshed.
Details: The Sense of Arabia massage is available until August 30 at a discounted price of Dh365 for 60 minutes. Call 04 701 1257.
— Krita Coelho/Staff Writer
Indian experience
Who doesn’t love a spa treatment? You simply lie back, let someone else do the work and think of… well, anything you fancy, even England. I was thinking of India, though, at Taj Dubai’s Jiva Spa.
The chain opened its second Dubai hotel in Business Bay last month, but I’ve been a fan since I first visited the fabulous Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai, whose tradition of service is inspired by the Indian belief that a guest must be treated like god.
The treatment I chose has a connection both with India and ancient Arabia. The pehlwan maalish or wrestler’s massage is a traditional version of the vigorous sports massage. In Hyderabad, where the term originated, the pehlwans were descended from seafaring Arabs. I could relate: my muscles were aching from a long week at work, and I’d channelled my inner navigator to find the hotel.
Once at this sharply designed contemporary spa, I was indeed greeted like a long-awaited guest with bowed heads and namastes. My therapist washed my feet in a bath of essential oils, as householders once did before guests crossed the threshold.
Traditionally, the massage is a hard-core, deep-tissue workout whose immediate benefits are apparent once the therapist stops beating you up. The Taj, however, realises our weakling desk-job bodies can’t hold up to this sort of beating, so the massage is much gentler. It uses slow, kneading strokes that put light pressure on the muscles, with the occasional yoga-like stretch. The use of mustard oil detoxifies and reduces inflammation.
Having gone straight from the gym, I wanted stronger pressure, but my therapist couldn’t quite match wrestler levels. But drinking ginger tea afterwards, I realised my calves and shoulders weren’t sore any more, so he’d certainly done his job.
Details: The Pehlwan Massage costs Dh820 and is discounted 25 per cent until August 31. Call 04 223 2222.
— Keith J. Fernandez/Editor – GN Focus
Turkish delight
Our emphasis on the ultra-modern in Dubai means the city’s Middle Eastern roots often don’t show through, but that’s certainly not the case at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. Just walking into the Talise Ottoman Spa is like stepping into Ali Baba’s cave. Walls aglow with tiny floor-to-ceiling lamps guide you down a corridor to a bright reception area, before you’re led deeper into a gargantuan complex of rooms. This spa seems bigger than some boutique hotels — fitting for anyone booking the Sultan’s massage.
The service is friendly and the treatment personalised. Ali, my always-smiling therapist, greets me outside the changing room and leads me to a treatment chamber. He gives me a form where I identify the areas that need extra care and offers me a variety of oils to choose from, depending on the desired result. Lemongrass energises while lavender and ylang-ylang relax.
I go with the former, since I’m tired after a long day and have an event to get to. I lie face down on a heated table and Ali begins by stretching and bending my legs so my muscles are warmed up before the massage. He’s good at what he does, using his fingers, the palm of his hand, and occasionally his forearm to assuage deep-seated tensions. He’s also attentive, asking about the pressure at regular intervals. The hour passes quickly, and afterwards — at iftar — I’m offered tea with some dates and cashews in a nice relaxing lounge area.
Unfortunately, I don’t have the time to enjoy the other facilities such as the salt water swimming pool, saunas, whirlpools and snow room. So ensure you have the time to make the most of it all.
Details: The 60-minute Sultan’s massage is available during Ramadan for Dh525. Customers booking one treatment get one free. Call 04 453 0456.
— Kevin Faulkner/Special to GN Focus
