They say you never forget your first time, and this is certainly true for my first hammam experience. It was at a little nondescript joint just a stone’s throw from the Blue Mosque. A bear of a man took great pleasure in manoeuvring my soapy body across the marble slate as I writhed around in both pleasure and pain as he removed what felt like at least two layers of skin. But the experience at Rixos hotel’s Royal Spa couldn’t be any more different.
The very functional domed room of the former is here given an impressive luxurious makeover, although the architecture matches. Light and airy, hues of grey and white add to the spa’s understated opulence.
Kemal, my therapist, is as big and strong as my first, but in a five-star hospitality way that is both efficient and comforting. His hands move deftly — gentle when need be but equally firm when called for. His touch is light as air applying the foamy soap, but makes light work of muscle tension.
Having a Turkish treatment, by a Turk, in a Turkish setting run by a Turkish brand, this hammam experience is as authentic as expected. The soap smells familiar, and the soothing procedure follows the traditional ritual, down to the steam room start and strong tea finish.
Time is of no consequence here, as you exist in a calm bubble where the outside world has no power. And on a Friday morning the spa is nearly empty and feels like your own personal empire — especially as you sip tea and nibble dates and Turkish delight in the plush relaxation room while you cool down.
I visited that first hammam a couple of times during that week in Istanbul years ago, and by the end I’d started to recognise faces; I loved the community spirit of it all. Something tells me I’ve found my community in Dubai.
Rixos Royal Spa; Thepalmdubai.rixos.com
